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I am having trouble with the A/C compressor on my 1984 300D.
It appears that there were several hose-block connections and compressor connection configurations.
I ordered a new compressor (for a different car). It came with the adapters and instructions. Unfortunelty, I'm having trouble understanding them.
I can't get the compressor to stop leaking at the hose connections in the rear.
Hello Kent,
I recently purchased one of your manual window regulators for my 240D. I am finally getting around to the install. What (if any) lube should i use to lubricate the regulator? I have some white lithium grease that I keep around. Is that suitable? Or none at all? thanks
Aaron
Recently, my oil pressure gage started reading above 3 bar at idle. Revving the engine does make it go up a little and turning off the engine drops the reading to zero. What to check, or is this a faulty gage. Oil level is good. The oil can by the gage has also lit up.
I have gone through the vacuum lock lines and tested each door to make sure I dont have a leake. The doors will all lock when the drivers door is pushed down from inside or with the key. But will not unlock the other 3 doors when the drivers door is opened. The trunk lock holds vacuum but does not unlock other than with the key. When I push the drivers door down the motor in the trunk comes on and goes off. When the drivers door is opened (lock pulled up) is the motor in the trunk to come on and push air to the other 3 doors to unlock them?
Thanks for your help Jim Hunt.
Will the Diesel Fuel Trunk Smell Fix Kit (DSL-123TSF) also fit the 116 chassis, specifically a 1980 300SD?
I was replacing the striker on my sons '79 and the bolts that the striker attach to fell. I can't see it and only the top one fell.. he was able to grab the bottom one with a paperclip and alot of patience. Is there are way to access inside that channel? Or another solution?
Thanks for answering my last question and all the other info I have gotten through MercedesSource by way of instructions and guides. I have new rotors that I aquired and the part number indicates that they go to the front of my 1984 300D. My question is that the old rotors (probably the originals)are bolted to the front bearing hub as you have confirmed. These new aftermarket rotors have no threads in the hub mating surface to accept the 5 mounting bolts that hold the old ones on. What gives? I have looked at other replacement brands also and see no way of fastening them to the hub.
When removing a brake rotor, (disc), is it fastened to the hub with any clips or bolts or is it sandwiched between the wheel and hub then secured by the lug bolts? There is 25 years of dirt/rust holding it in place also so I didn't expect it to exactly fall off but I was wondering if there are any fasteners I should be aware of.
As always thanks for any info that is offered.
Great resource.......Mike G.
I just got my car back from the Upholstery shop. They were trying to do me a favor and dye the seats. The color they used is too light in my opinion. Does anyone know what I can use to remove the SEM aerosol vinyl dye without causing damage to the vinyl seats?
I was troubleshooting the vacuum system and removed the bracket that holds the trunk lock actuator in place. Went in to get a glass of water and a not-so-helpful family member shut the trunk.
I can turn the key to my heart's content - it moves very freely because there's nothing holding the actuator in place. I have absolutely NO CLUE how to get in to the trunk now.