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I have a 1983 300d. The accelerator pedal is not engaging my transmission kickdown switch on the floorboard. It makes contact with the switch but does not mash it down enough to engage the switch. Does anyone know the best way to adjust the throttle linkage to take out the free travel in my pedal and adjust it so that it completely engages the kickdown switch? Thanks for the help!
Glidehm
I am interested in finding out info on how hard it is to remove an replace the heater blower unit from my 1988ish 190E sedan. I am pretty handy with the tools but want to know how much of a specialistjob it is and if it requires any special tools.
I have already replaced the switching unit and that temporarily fixed the problem. The unit then just packed up and it's getting pretty cold at the moment without it, not to mention a little dangerous having to demist the windscreen manually.
Any info or hints would be greatly appreciated.
cheers
Ozziedave
My cars blower was erratic (sometimes it would operate on high, sometimes it would operate on only medium, sometimes it would barely blow) and I thought that either my switch was malfunctioning or the fan motor was going out. It seemed that it might be the motor since even the defrost manual high speed setting was unpredictable. As of yesterday it has stopped all together. Is this the normal failure mode for fan motor or switch?
Can anyone tell me how to remove the center vents from the dashboard? is this even possible without pulling the whole dash out? i have some trash behind one of the vents and I cant get it out without removing the adjustable vent! Thanks for any help!!!!!
GLIDEHM
ive got the cluster pulled on my 84 sd except the green wire with a black screw off cap in the middle of the cluster. what does it do and how do i remove it i dont like my cluster to dangle
After pulling up the front carpet pads up on my 1983 TD wagon, I found a layer of fractured/broken material between the carpet and the metal of the lower firewall. Outer material is hard and the inner layer is a black insulation/foam. I suppose since it's all broken and falling apart I have no choice but to remove it....I'm just wondering if this is normal on the TD, since I know my 240D has nothing like it, and what (if anything) it means that it has all broken apart?
Thanks!
I was checking out the alert section of this fantastic web site and one of the alerts was on the flex couplers on the older high mileage cars. A week later mine went. I should of inspected them imediatly and saved some head aches. Luckily I do have a parts car which is a 1981 and the drive line appears to be in good shape. I have ordered new flex plates, the center bearing and associated rubber parts. Anything special I should look for when replacing the drive line. I'll let you know how it goes and what all the calateral damage is. Moral to the story read the alerts and act quickly.
First off... Thanks so much for the easy to follow manual on changing valve guide seals. I finished that good little job about a week ago. I am trying to reduce oil consumption in my 240d. Much to my dismay, the old seals seemed to (to me) be in good condition. I have not noticed a reduction in oil use. My benz has 211,000 on the odo. What should be the next step in trying to kill this tapeworm? I am burning about 2 u.s. quarts per 300 miles. Car starts well and runs like a dream... Does not lose power going up hills and will easily cruise at 75 on the highway. I am perplexed.
I just bought a 1987 300TDT wagon. 207k Rear suspension makes a sqeaking sound when I push down on the rear bumper. No leaks on the ground from the hydrolic suspension. Some oil weaping on the rear shocks. Any ideas? lube something?
Also, does this 6 diesel need a valve adjustment like the 123?
Hi Kent,
We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?
Thanks much,
Brook and Justin