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Trying to replace the regulator slide on a 83' 126. I have everything off and the regulator is unbolted and loose, but I can't seem to fiqure out how to disconnect the wireing. It seems to be hard wired into the regulator and unhooking the switch still leaves wires connected. Please help, before I start splicing.
Thanks again for the help!!!!
I'm assuming that in order to replace lift gate struts, the molded plastic headliner piece must be removed. I have re-
moved the six small screws and the rear interior overhead light fixture but the headliner piece remains firmly
attached. What don't I know now? Thanks in advance for your help.
I replaced a failing differential in a 1983 300D which had a 3.07/1 final drive ratio with a w126 differential with a 2.47/1 final drive ratio. RUNS GREAT!!! Of course, what the tranny-driven mechanical speedometer-odometer now registers is about 80% of what the actual speed and mileage are. I would like the instruments to reflect actual speed and mileage.
In the original vehicle, an electrical speed sensing unit on the differential connects to the instrument cluster.
I believe that the vacuum actuator for the center flaps needs replacement. Unfortunately, it looks like it's a real difficult part to remove. I'm wondering if you've ever had to pull and replace this? If yes, how did you do it? And ::fingers crossed:: were you able to do it without removing the dash?
I have a '84 300TD wagon. Last year I took the car in to get the A/C checked out as it was not working when I purchased the car. They checked the lines and it seemed to hold pressure just fine. They replaced the valve with one for R134 and put two cans in, and at once the compressor kicked on and started blowing cold air. The aux fan has never worked but that didn't seem to matter much unless I was standing still and it would be a little less cool. Everything has been working fine for the last year, until recently.
Moving the down the highway my daily 1985 300SD w/' 225k blows cold. However, when idling the blower is strong pushing only warm air. Need advice on what I need to look at / DYI replace parts / or schedule an appointment with MB mechanic.
Thanks
Mark Lowry
Dallas, TX
108 degrees today
1986 560 SEC coupe
Greetings:
I share Kent's pholosophy of prevention. I have removed the center console where the shifter is and the radio, climate console and ashtray to refinish the wood. While all that is out, what things do you recommend that I change out while I have easier access inside the dash? BTW I am in the process of replacing the climate control motor brushes and the gauge cluster lights as Kent suggested but was wondering if there were other items?
Thanks,
John Sebastian
The clock on my 79 300D recently stopped working when the engine is shut off; works fine when engine running. Where do I look? How do I fix it?
Thanks
I have posted this question on a few other Mercedes Forums with no assistance. So...I have paid the 30 bucks for hopefully some light to be shed.
I have a strange problem with my central locks.
The problem I am having is that locking any controlling (driver passenger trunk)lock will cause all locks to unlock but it is impossible to lock the doors. I obviously have no leaks.
What I have so far.
I have run the pump on the bench and if I ground any of the 3 pins the pump pulls untill the vac switch makes. Then if I apply 12v to a pin the pump pushes until the press switch makes. This seems to make sense. Keep in mind I did not test the pump with a constant 12v on any pins and I will try that later today.
I also tested the wiring in the car and all is correct.
I have a 1982 300sd and a set of 17" AMG mono's. I would love to mount these wheels on my car. What size wheel spacers and lug bolts do I need.