The head has been successfully removed. There is quite a bit of work that will need to be done before the head is ready to go back on. The head and the block will need to be cleaned and inspected and parts will need to be ordered. Other parts should be replaced while the head is off the engine. These are the subjects discussed in this third part in Kent’s M104 head gasket video manual series.
The following specifics will be covered:
- Review of removing the head with an engine hoist and tilter
- Why the tilter is so important
- Removing the old gasket and examining it for cause of leaks
- Inspection of the block for damage
- Cleaning top surface of the block
- Cleaning and inspection cylinder head bolt threads in the block
- Why it is so important to test the block threads
- Inspection of the cylinder head for damage
- Cleaning the gasket material of the head without damaging the aluminum
- What to use to prevent scratching the surface
- How to check for warpage of the block and head
- Checking for leaks in other gaskets
- Other parts to order in and around the manifold and the engine
- Checking the cylinder head bolts for excessive stretch
- When the bolts should be replaced
- Where to order the parts
- Other parts to consider replacing while the head is off
- Discussion and overview of new parts received and why they are recommended
- New updated head gasket shown up close
- New updated manifold gaskets shown up close
- Other work that should be done under the manifold while head is off
- Good example why you want to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets
- Checking and painting the exhaust manifolds
- How to clean the head in a solvent bath
- Consider testing / or replacing the fuel injectors and injector seals
- Reference to next video in the series - installing the head.
Not covered in this video: Once again please keep in mind that Kent does not go over removing and replacing every single bolt, nut or clamp. It is assumed that if you are tackling an advanced DIY job like a head gasket replacement you will already know some of the “basics.” This video focuses on the problems specific to the 104 engine, how to prevent trouble, and things you may not read about in the factory service manual.
November 2015 update: Part 4 is still in the planning phases and if completed will cover replacing the cylinder head back on the engine, proper torquing and resealing, and setting the the cam timing properly. These videos are very expensive to product and we have not received enough income from the sale of part 1 through part 3 to fund part 4 or part 5. At this point Kent can not "guarantee" continuation of this series so keep that in mind when purchasing part 1 to 3. Please sell Helpful information below:
The first link is an article by Steve Brotherton. You might google him to get more tips on the M104 engine. He is considered very knowledgable.
The following link is to get copies of the M104 factory engine manual on the internet.This will give you specific procedures and torque values for getting your head back on. There are also inexpensive CD manuals on eBay, etc. on the M104 engine. Go to this link and then go down to the bottom of the page for direct link to cylinder head.
Total Run Time of this Video: 37:58
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