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Two quick questions. I am about to adjust the valves (5cyl 617) to do a compression test on an engine that has not been turned in a couple of years. I just took the valve cover off and everything looks as it should. No sign of corrosion anywhere, oil still present on surfaces.
Should I put oil down the cylinders prior to turning for valve adjustment?
How much in each cylinder?
Thanks
After I drive my 190D and shut It off,I noticed it has a hard time to restart sometimes.It has been like this for awhile now.After checking things out, I found that the stop lever on the injection pump stays down and takes a long time to come back up.Would this be a fault in the shut off valve?If i have someone hold the lever up the car starts right up.What would cause this to do that?
I installed all three new motor mounts on my 1979 300SD W116, the engine did not line up very well while putting in new front mounts, prying the engine was necessary. The rear mount was a snap, however, I had to pry the bell housing from the cross member to get it to avoid vibration while underway, going in reverse up hill was very loud. The engine/transmission is settling back on the cross member. Any ideas?
The chassis has about 340k miles on it and the engine was rebuilt about 85k miles ago by the previous owner. I can say that the rubber under the car is warn.
Hi,
I am losing vacuum from the black line near the oil filter housing that goes in to the firewall. I tried to figure out where it goes under the dash to no avail, it seems as if it may have been capped and the cap fell off. Does anyone know if I am right? I should add that if I cap the line, everything seems to work as it should.
Thanks,
Sal
Hei!
I bought a parts car without any keys. Nice late turbo diesel with 200K miles that was stalled a year ago due to electrical problems.
The ignition lock is drilled out by me to be able to steer. I have been trying to hotwire the car to check the engine before putting it in my nicer 1984 NA 300D wagon.
So far it only growls one time(nicely though without hestitation) after glowing and starting. Then it only chuckles without firing.
I have been bleeding the diesel lines x times, maybe without luck.
What am I overlooking?
-Anything with the vacuum lines in the ignition lock? (I connected the two together)
-Or maybe more wires must be connected? (I took one of the two hot red ones, then the red w black stripe, then the purple starter wire)
i bought a used turbo from a 1986 300sdl. it is a Garrett. the current Turbo on my vehicle is a KKK. are they completely interchangeable? i would like to figure this out prior to removing the old. does anyone know?
thanks
Scott
I have 5 each of these injectors:
KCA30S46
KCA30S35/4
KCA30SD27/4 (this one had a plastic cover with the number NA32X on it)
Are they interchangeable?
Will the same nozzles work in all?
The cars in question are a 82 300TD Turbo and a 84 300D Turbo. I want to rebuild the injectors and want to make sure these housings can work with the nozzles for the cars. Thank you
1985 300D, 123, 4 door sedan - only a little over 100.0 k on it. Thought I would change the engine mounts - owned old Mercedes diesels for over 35 years. This car is new to me - put about 8.0 k on it.
What is with the engine mounts! It has been tough to get the inside Allen bolt loose - I was finally able to get loose the one on the passenger side but the drivers side is driving me nuts - too close a tolerance with the bracket that holds the engine shock damper and is also the main weight bearing member that fastens to the engine mount.
bought a rough running 1982 300d turbo. Previous owner thought it was the injectors and replaced them with junkyard injectors and didn't use washers! I adjusted the valves as per Kent's instructions with his wrenches. I did a compression test - good compression in all cylinders. Installed MS rebuilt injectors and torqued to specs. Installed dampner bolt. Glow plugs work fine. Engine starts eaisly but runs very rough untill it warms up, then it runs great! I don't see any leaks of fuel. I am really stuck. I have an identical 300d that has run fine for the past 4 years!
I'm not exactly sure what happened with my car but I've heard it described as a thrown belt, anyway it broke and ripped my power steering pump off and tore off the belt tensioner pulley.
I'm in the process of putting things back together and noticed that I need a new AC compressor. Should I attempt to replace it myself if I have no prior experience with AC and don't want to buy a bunch of expensive tools?
Also, how do you get the high pressure hose off of the power steering pump where it connects to the pump reservoir?