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Making my question simpler. I am removing the engine plug to install the block heater. I am using a 19mm 1/2 inch drive Allen an extension and a 20 inch breaker bar. I have put some torque on it and it does not budge. I do not want to break anything. How much torque is safe? Any suggestions?
Thank you
I am having problems with my Injection Pump Shutoff Valve...when I first start the car up the Valve is in the upright position..when I shut the car off it stops down and shuts the engine off. Then when I come back to restart the car a few minutes later..and turn the key to start..the engine turns over but will not start because the Shutoff Valve is down, but when I immediately turn the key off then back on, it comes up and starts the car immediately.
Hi Kent, why would I have oil in the bottom of my air cleaner housing after air filter is removed? The circuit is simple, blowby travels up and out VC into oil separator which then flows back down drain tube to sump. I have poured fresh oil down tube and it definitely drains -this one has me stumped! Thank you!
James Soule
1982 300SD
I bought an 87 300 SDL with a 617 diesel (from an 83 sd) transplanted into it,everything is compatible except some of the wiring harness.the problem is the A/C compressor has the older 2 prong terminal which I need to match up to the newer 3 prong terminal,(which has no current)A mercedes mechanic said the extra terminal is from the speed sensor they started using in 1986.Somehow I need to trick the AC relay on the firewall into thinking its getting a signal... Does anyone have any experience with merging these two together?
I removed my voltage regulator and when I took it out it looked like the attached image. Basically one brush at an angle and touching the other brush. I just put the new one it but after screwing the new one in I'm a bit confused as to how the old one got the one bent brush. Any ideas? Was it just a cheap part? There was no brand on it at all.
I guess this might get removed but images make it so much easier to show what is going on.
Matt
http://i.imgur.com/gFX2Z.jpg
This issue just started to happen about two weeks after I completed a valve adjustment, diesel purge, banjo cleanout and ALDA adjustment. The car has run very smoothly and with more power since then but over the last few days I have noticed that when I start the engine from cold, it will 'stumble' and shake, sometimes severely. And just today, it even started to have a more prominent 'nailing' sound. If, after starting, I immediately open/modulate the throttle for 5 seconds or so and release it, the problem subsides quickly - but does seem to be getting worse.
My 82 300SD with 202,000 miles has been running hotter than it should be at highway speeds above 70 MPH. Not at red line but uncomfortably above the 100 degree mark and at 110 degrees ambient was getting close to red line last summer. At slower speeds and idling it does not run above 100.
My mechanic thinks he recalls there was a mfg modification to the water pump pulley in later year models like after 84/85 that replaced the pulley with a smaller one to make it turn faster.
I have a 1982 123, 300TD and noticed the good battery dies quickly after just a few cranks of the engine. I tested each glow plug terminal with a light as shown on the cool videos you have, and noticed that two of the five do not light up. I looked at the glow plug relay fuse and it is OK, could I possibly have a short in those two glow plugs that would cause it to kill the battery that fast? Please help :(
While working on my vacuum system I ran this car in my garage for several minutes. I noticed an oily residue on the garage floor. Anything to be concerned about? Thanks.
Ok I am getting engine shake and it started about 4-5 months ago.
* When I start the car cold I do not get it.
* I can drive around in the city and it seems to never do it.
* If I drive on the highway and then exit after 5 or more minutes of sustained highway speeds (roughly)it does it and sometimes will not stop even after driving at city speeds. (UPDATE... it did it during city driving this morning once and then stopped at the next light, so I guess not it is just officially intermittent.
* I have replaced and adjusted the rack damper from upgrade bolt from MSource
* I have new fuel injectors from MSource (Monark ones)
* My car leaks nothing, not a drop from anywhere.