Diesel injector differences-turbo vs. non turbo
I have a set of injectors that came off a 300 turbo diesel and I was wondering if they would work in a non turbo engine?
Just wondering what the difference would be in the two.
Thank you
kenneth
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I have a set of injectors that came off a 300 turbo diesel and I was wondering if they would work in a non turbo engine?
Just wondering what the difference would be in the two.
Thank you
kenneth
Are the couple of hoses at drivers side of what I think is an oil cooler are those the oil lines? These hoses are like a hydraulic line, alterante between rubber and preformed special metal fittings and shaped metal lines. They appear to be a pre determined length and appear to go back near the trans. If so are they easily replaced? Cost and availability of the lines and do you have a how to guide? I recently used your ignition switch guide and replacement parts. Thank you it was quite helpful. One other question is the oil pan and gasket available through you?
As I continue my quest for perfect 617 Diesel Injectors & truth I have just learned today that I need to have the internal surfaces of my injectors lapped to remove grime & build-up. . .
Is this something I can do myself (lapping the surfaces) if I take on the task of re-building my 617 injectors w/new Monark nozzles?
How would I do this?
thank you & Happy New Year,
Kieran-
The noise is usually not noticable at an idle or at higher speeds.The noise is also almost always not noticable when running SVO.When I switch back to deisel the noise takes awhile to occur.
I have a 1980 240D sedan with an automatic transmission. When I start the car and drive it first thing in the morning, the transmission shift from first to second gear is rough, it snaps my head when it shifts! However, once I have been driving it for about 15- 20 minutes and it's warmed up, the shifting from first to second is much smoother and about the same for the other gears. Is my transmission having a problem, or is this typical for a car of this age?
I finally got around to checking my compression and found (the car has 300K+ miles on it) all cylinders had 280-325 on the compression EXCEPT #1 which I checked 6 times with different crush washers and could never get over 160.
I'm thinking I need to recheck my valve clearances one more time. What else can I look for to try and figure the problem?
I was troubleshooting my 300SD for low startup torque (I have already adjusted the valves, rebuilt the injectors, etc) then I went to the alda. I removed the banjo bolt from behind the turbo but it wasn't all that dirty. Then I removed the bolt from the side of my alda and engine oil started dripping out. I don't know much about this thing but I don't think this is right.
I saw one of these for sale on this site. Is this something a shadetree mechanic can change?
I recently purchased a 1984 300D Turbo diesel and it was running beautifully. Then I converted to bio diesel (changed the fuel lines) and ever since I have been having issues.
My 1984 300sd will keep running after the key is out of the ignition. I do have a new shutoff valve to replace, but have not gotten to it.
Well, I figured out why the engine cuts off some times before I get the hood up. When I'm getting out of the vehicle I tapped the brake and it killed the engine. I do this with regularity now. Has anybody heard of this? And if so, is it still my "shutoff valve" or a vacuuum booster to the brakes?
I've followed along numerous posts on this subject and followed instructions where I could, but my car is still a DOG.
I have performed all of these fixes yet not realized much difference:
-Cleaned banjo bolt
-Replaced air/fuel filters (many times)
-StarBrite anti-fungus fuel additive
-Replaced some vacuum connectors (not the 3-ways, just the small pieces - I'm poor, but working on it)
-Replaced brake booster vacuum line - it had 2 broken nipples.
-Replaced vacuum switch levers (the two plastic things on top of the valve cover - whatever they're called)