1993 500SL won't Start
In storage for winter. Started vehicle ran for a while and stalled.
Tried to start. When key is turned in ignition, engine does not turn over.
Just hear beeping sound. Battery o.k.
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In storage for winter. Started vehicle ran for a while and stalled.
Tried to start. When key is turned in ignition, engine does not turn over.
Just hear beeping sound. Battery o.k.
Have experienced following:
1. Attempt to start - no crank and smoke comes from driver's side speaker area. Wait 10 minutes, try again, cranks and starts fine with no dash smoke.
2. Attempt to start later - again no crank, more smoke. Wait 10 minutes, cranks slowly but starts, no smoke.
Examination under dash reveals oil around ignition switch. My current thinking is to rebuild the vacuum pump and clean out all the vacuum lines I can reach.
What to do about the ignition switch? As I understand it, the switch is attached to a vacuum element that must have been polluted. It seems like the switch itself is now polluted too. Should I replace switch alone after vacuum pump rebuild? Or switch and vacuum element together?
Hi:
My starter motor spins and will not engage 4 out of 5 tries, so I need at least a new solenoid.
It looks difficult to get the solenoid out, what with the heat shield blocking the wiring, and because I can't seem to break the (3) screws loose.
I figure the starter has to come out to replace the solenoid. I may replace the entire unit.
It looks like the exhaust head pipe has to move, because the starter looks too big to slip out any other way. Moving the head pipe will also make access to the two starter bolts easier.
Hello, newbe to this forum, live in vancouver Canada. Have my vegimobile/biodiesel 116 that has a noisey diff. Looking for resonably priced replacement and cant find one local. Question is do other diffs such as the 126 model fit.
Thanks in advance
Lawrence
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I recently parked my car on a steep hill with the passenger side downhill. When I returned to my car there was fuel leaking down the street and inside the wheel well in the trunk. I unclogged the rubber piece that lets water out of the trunk and drained the fuel out. I use biodiesel and I don't see any worn through parts. Any idea how the fuel got into the trunk, all seems normal now but I wanted to make sure there weren't any safety issues.
The key had been sticking when I first tried to turn it over. One morning while in a rush to get the kids to school I put a wrench to the key to make it turn. My problem went from not starting, to not turning off when I turn the key off. The key now turns VERY freely and the steering wheel doesn't lock. I am trying to replace the whole lock cylinder but it doesn't want to leave its home. The cover sleeve won't even budge. The marks on the sleeve(0,I,II) have never lined up with the notch on the cylinder. Is there an alternate route to removing the lock cylinder? Or does anyone know how to get me out of this jam? It is very disheartening to pull into a parking lot proudly driving my old MB, only to pop the hood and press to e-stop to turn the engine off.