How to remove rear door panel 1979 300TD
1979 300TD steps/tips on removing the trunk (rear door) interior panel.
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1979 300TD steps/tips on removing the trunk (rear door) interior panel.
For about a year I've noticed a clunking noise/vibration in the right rear at sustained highway speeds after about 45 min. Almost sounds as if I dropped my muffler and the pipe is banging and dragging , and there's a noticeable squeeking or high pitched rubbing sound as well. New Tires and shocks, new brakes & pads ,new muffler, all donuts OK . Noticed a worn center drive shaft carrier and one cracked CV boot. Flex joints checked out OK.
Noise doesn't happen in normal driving around town. 2 mechanics have thus far been unable to diagnose.
Have any ideas?
I have a 1982 123, 300TD and noticed the good battery dies quickly after just a few cranks of the engine. I tested each glow plug terminal with a light as shown on the cool videos you have, and noticed that two of the five do not light up. I looked at the glow plug relay fuse and it is OK, could I possibly have a short in those two glow plugs that would cause it to kill the battery that fast? Please help :(
While working on my vacuum system I ran this car in my garage for several minutes. I noticed an oily residue on the garage floor. Anything to be concerned about? Thanks.
I noticed the leak appears to be comming from the front of the rear diff. What seal would you use to seal the axle into the diff?
I'm having difficult removing cracked footrest. Footrest is connected to plastic kickplate with 2 plastic rivets. Kickplate seems attached to car body with a clip on the inside. I cannot remove kickplate no matter which way I pull it. Also, do I destructively remove the 2 plastic rivets holding the footrest? Do you sell new rivets? Thanks for your help.
At ca. 154,000 miles I have been slowly bringing the engine performance back to snuff. I recently rebuilt my turbo using your excellent kit. The compressor and turbine blades and shaft were in excellent condition so I opted not to purchase the replacement set.
Prior to the rebuild my boost pressure at 4000 rpm was 9 psi. Following the rebuild, there was no improvement in boost pressure. Per your instructions, I tested the waste gate (with a bicycle pump) and it appears to work.
The ALDA tube and Banjo bolt are clean; I've installed a new air filter, adjusted the valves following your instructions, installed rebuilt Monarch fuel injectors, and did a diesel engine purge (which was clean) and replaced the fuel filters.
Quick question. What should I look for in regard to the capacity of a multimeter in regard to max amperage, etc for it to be effective for all possible testing uses on my '82 W123 and '92 W124 300D turbodiesels?
Any other recommendations for "multimeter must-haves" are welcome.
Thanks!
driving home yesterday and started to hear some clinking in the engine...not that unusually, then a little more, became on and off, almost as if metal was dragging on the ground...then became a permanent loud noise....i pulled over and while the sound is a tocuh louder when i accelerate it is there regardless...seems to be coming from near all the belts...any suggestions welcome...thank you....
Our beloved 1982 300D has been acting up this past week and I'm hoping someone could steer me in the right direction toward figuring it out.