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I am having problems with my Injection Pump Shutoff Valve...when I first start the car up the Valve is in the upright position..when I shut the car off it stops down and shuts the engine off. Then when I come back to restart the car a few minutes later..and turn the key to start..the engine turns over but will not start because the Shutoff Valve is down, but when I immediately turn the key off then back on, it comes up and starts the car immediately.
I dropped my car off at an auto body shop for a minor repair.
When I picked up the car I noticed the knob that adjusts the clock was mysteriously broken off. I found the knob, but it does not look like it can be glued back on.
Do I have to replace the entire cluster? Can the knob be replaced from behind the cluster?
G
The steering box on my 280E is leaking fluid. It appears to be from the seal near where the pitman arm attaches to the output shaft. My local Mercedes specialist tells me that this is a time consuming and expensive repair involving a strip down and replacement of the (many) seals within the box. Although I intend to get this done in the next few months, is it worthwhile in the interim flushing the system and adding a power-steering stop leak product to the new fluid, or is this just a waste of time?
I bought an 87 300 SDL with a 617 diesel (from an 83 sd) transplanted into it,everything is compatible except some of the wiring harness.the problem is the A/C compressor has the older 2 prong terminal which I need to match up to the newer 3 prong terminal,(which has no current)A mercedes mechanic said the extra terminal is from the speed sensor they started using in 1986.Somehow I need to trick the AC relay on the firewall into thinking its getting a signal... Does anyone have any experience with merging these two together?
n/a All wipers have quite working. New wiper motor on rear hatch, new relay, and horn does not work. Horn is on the same circuit and fuses were good but I replaced the wiper/horn fuse any way. Rear wiper quite working first, then windshield wipers began failing intermittently and now are completely non functional. Ground issue?
After replacing wiper relay and wiper /horn fuse and checking for operation system did not function, then after setting overnight and starting in the morning wipers and horn worked, and have worked ever since. Is there a reset function happening here?
This issue just started to happen about two weeks after I completed a valve adjustment, diesel purge, banjo cleanout and ALDA adjustment. The car has run very smoothly and with more power since then but over the last few days I have noticed that when I start the engine from cold, it will 'stumble' and shake, sometimes severely. And just today, it even started to have a more prominent 'nailing' sound. If, after starting, I immediately open/modulate the throttle for 5 seconds or so and release it, the problem subsides quickly - but does seem to be getting worse.
MY 1983 Mercedes 300CD TurboDiesel AC produces no air flow at the vent. I have rebuilt the motor, new brushes and it works beautifully. I tried reversing the wiring at the plug under the dash and that produced less pressure. I measured the flow by taking the motor fan out of its housing and turning in on and it is still fine and produces a good
fan noise when in the housing.
Next I checked all the vents and only the center vent needed a connection. Now they all work and work correctly according to the the CC control sequence. All tested well.
Still no flow at the vent only a whisper of air.
I am converting a 1984 300 turbo to run on wvo using a seperate tank, hose in hose approach. We converted my brother's 1986 sdl already (so we have a clue). I just (15 minutes ago) bought the SVO/WVO advanced theory so it has not arrived.
MY QUESTION: Where do I cut the heater hose? right after the thermostat? on the top left hand side of engine (as I face the engine)? I am guessing that if I cut there then any flow controls for heat need not be on in order to supply heat for 2nd tank (good idea when its hot outside).
Thanks
What sort of radiator coolant should I put in my '84 280E (W123)? I've recently acquired this car, and the previous owner reckons he had the system flushed and the coolant replaced not long before selling (but he did not keep the receipt for the work). The system certainly seems full of clean, bright green fluid but I have no idea what brand/type of coolant it is. Should I be looking to flush this coolant out of the system and replace it with coolant supplied by a Mercedes Benz dealer? Thanks in advance.
Brad