W123, Electrical

1983 240D Throttle linkage problems

file:///C:/Users/Norman%20Sumner/DSCN4878.JPG
Kent,
Do you know if these grommet/spacer can be replaced or do I have to fabricate something to fix whatever they are called. In case the picture does not work. The items I want to replace are part of the throttle linkage. The linkage comes straight from the firewall to a forked plate. The forks go through two slots, and the grommets keep the forks aligned. I was wondering why I had so much movement in my peddle before I received any response for the engine.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,

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1985 300D starter problem?

My 1985 300D starter seems to momentarily stay engaged on the first start of the day. Very short grinding noise after the key is released as if the gears are not disengaging on the starter. Rest of the day seems to be fine,only hear this noise if car has sat several hours or overnight. Looked thru questions on this forum and could not find anything similar. Vacuum related? I just started the self-mechanic routine, so thanks for any input.
JMD

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77 300d Will crank Wont start

I just Purchased Mercedes about two months ago with 104000 miles on it. Car was in need of some attention It did run, took a couple of trys to start and also had fuel knock.

I purchased and installed
new valve guide seals
Injector kit
glow plug update kit and filters
adjusted valves

After purging air out of injector lines car started right up and ran great all weekend with just a little smoke at idle.

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'82 240D early shifting vacuum modulator adjustment ??

my 1982 240D auto transmission is upshifting way too early - I'm in 4th by the time the car is at 25mph. How much can I adjust the vacuum modulator to adjust this shifting? I recently replaced the VM because the car wasn't shifting at all higher than 2nd gear. The VM replacement fixed that, but now it's shifting way too early. i installed the VM as is out of the box. i know you can turn the key clockwise or counterclockwise, but i can't find any info anywhere about how much or how little. is there a spec that i should be shooting for on this?

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Cold or warm compression checks..or both?

Got the factory manual CD...200dpi scans...it sucks a little there.

My question is...Mercedes recommends 80 degrees C for compression checks...all of mine were done at stone cold (why we got rid of one car)...So, which one? As is predictable, the stone cold readings are dramatically different from the 80 degree readings.

While I have not yet done a comparison on the cars we still have, on the one we got rid of, the warm one was at 400 as opposed to 190 cold (on the cylinder that was low...the others were over 350). What does this indicate (a leakdown got on #1 got the compression to 400+...would seem to indicate rings.)?

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Buy rebuilt injectors OR rebuild myself, 1983 300D

I'm struggling with the decision over buying the injector rebuild kit (with monarchs) or simply buying the already rebuilt monarchs and returning my cores. I know some of you have gone down this road and I would appreciate any comments and/or advice you could give.
My worry with doing it myself has to do with leaks. It seems like competent folks who are following the procedures are still getting leaks. Has anyone experienced leak problems with the MB Source rebuild injectors?
Thanks and I'm going to make a decision sometime in the coming 2 weeks.

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1982 300D Engine Knocking After Injector Cleaning

Hi Everyone,

I just finished fixing one problem only to get myself into another :-). I tried to install some of the new monark nozzles from mercedessource. I tried to be very careful and clean when reassembling the injectors after replacing the nozzles and thoroughly lapped all the mating surfaces with fine sand paper as described in the guide.

One thing I was not able to figure out is how to remove the old crush washers from the engine to replace them with new ones. Because of this I left them there. Any tips on how to remove these would be much appreciated as they seem pretty stuck in there and there were no hints in the manual I received.

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