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I have a 1985 300d. The torsion bar end broke off at the control arm. It is a massive job to replace the whole thing, but I understand there is an end piece with bushings that can be welded on. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks
I just bought a new heater motor because my old one would blow the fuse contuinually. Sometimes instantly, or sometimes after 20 minutes. I took it to an electric motor shop and he pointed out how it was bad- the bearing were shot, which I wasn't suprised because it had been squealing awfully since I owned the car. However, after installing the new heater motor on monday, I went out today to find that the fuse was blown. What could be causing this? It's blowing the #8 fuse (16amp) and the White AC Crossover Idle stabilization one. Is the aux pump on this?
my '79 300TD is leaking and burning oil at an alarming rate. it appears that oil is pooling in the air filter housing (the air filter itself is *drenched* in motor oil and oil is pooled in the filter housing. Also, the tablespoons of oil that pool on the pavement when the engine is hot (it doesn't leak at all overnight or when the car sits cold) are always found underneath, roughly, the air filter housing). also, the car intermittently blows a steady stream of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe that smells like burned motor oil.
I recently replaced the line that runs from the temperature sensor on the dash to the blower motor. The foam portion of the line behind the glove compartment had disintegrated. It was probably like this for many years. The blower motor or some other part of the blower is very noisy now. Any recommendations to quiet it down would be greatly appreciated.
I have been driving cross country in my 1981 240D (automatic transmission) and I find that when I am going up steep hills that I hear this loud knocking noise begin when I press the gas pedal. This noise disappears when I am on flat ground or going downhill. Is this normal? Or is this a sign of a tranny thats going out? Things seem to be operating normally apart from that. Thanks
I have a noise that sounds like an air leak in my interior/dash board. The noise is a squeeky loud air noise and happens when the car is moving more than 60 MPH, however if I let off the fuel pedal the noise will stop. It appears to be directly related to throttle position as the noise will get louder as I accelerate and will quiet down on deceleration and will dissapear altogether when just cruising below 60 MPH. Any idea what this is and how I can trouble shoot. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Hi all at Mercedessource and site users. I am in the process of elimating the leaks in my front and rear windshields. The leaks in the rear not only make my trunk smell musty but I think they may be the reason my rear dash has buckled on the side of the dash where the first aid kit sits. (I have nothing heavy in the first aid kit.) My question is; how does that rear dash come out? And if any one else has had this problem, what course of action did you take? Are there new dashes, or covers available like the front?
'84 300D, 385K mi. WVO the past 25K mi. 5u final filtering (has a functioning boost pump). I slowly lost power over a 1K mi period. Did a valve adjust, fuel sys. complete flush-out, filter changes and new monak injectors. Checked for air leaks into fuel sys., none. Checked Turbo waste gate was opperation correctly, yes. Ran straight Dinodiesel the past 20Gal with a bottle in injector cleaner (for 50 gal.) Ran a qt of injector cleaner straight. (this isn't the diesel purge you have, but I just got some and haven't used it yet.) Cold Compression read, 400, 305, 400, 340, 380.