W123, SVO/WVO parts
Cold or warm compression checks..or both?
Got the factory manual CD...200dpi scans...it sucks a little there.
My question is...Mercedes recommends 80 degrees C for compression checks...all of mine were done at stone cold (why we got rid of one car)...So, which one? As is predictable, the stone cold readings are dramatically different from the 80 degree readings.
While I have not yet done a comparison on the cars we still have, on the one we got rid of, the warm one was at 400 as opposed to 190 cold (on the cylinder that was low...the others were over 350). What does this indicate (a leakdown got on #1 got the compression to 400+...would seem to indicate rings.)?
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Buy rebuilt injectors OR rebuild myself, 1983 300D
I'm struggling with the decision over buying the injector rebuild kit (with monarchs) or simply buying the already rebuilt monarchs and returning my cores. I know some of you have gone down this road and I would appreciate any comments and/or advice you could give.
My worry with doing it myself has to do with leaks. It seems like competent folks who are following the procedures are still getting leaks. Has anyone experienced leak problems with the MB Source rebuild injectors?
Thanks and I'm going to make a decision sometime in the coming 2 weeks.
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Pentosin DOT4 Brake Fluid - One Liter
1982 300D Engine Knocking After Injector Cleaning
Hi Everyone,
I just finished fixing one problem only to get myself into another :-). I tried to install some of the new monark nozzles from mercedessource. I tried to be very careful and clean when reassembling the injectors after replacing the nozzles and thoroughly lapped all the mating surfaces with fine sand paper as described in the guide.
One thing I was not able to figure out is how to remove the old crush washers from the engine to replace them with new ones. Because of this I left them there. Any tips on how to remove these would be much appreciated as they seem pretty stuck in there and there were no hints in the manual I received.
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123 Mercedes 300D Turbo Oil Return Gasket Replacement
Help! So I am in the middle of changing the gasket for the oil return pipe that goes from the turbo to the top of the oil pan and I thought once I started I would figure out a way to get the whole pipe out, but I am about 1/8th of an inch of clearance from being able to get the top half of the pipe off. Is there a secret to this? I searched the internet and the only tip I could find is to remove a heat shield that would give a little more clearance but there must be some further tip as I contemplated that but it didn't look like it would help.
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1982 240D too much inside tire wear ??
Hi,
I have replaced everything steering and suspension wise except the steering box(which does have some play) and had the car fully checked over and aligned. I am getting very server tire wear on the two front tires on the inside. The tires don't even have 5000 miles on them and have already been rotated once. I brought this back to the shop and they said oh these old mercedes just have the camber set which tilts the tire and there is nothing I can really do about it.
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Late W123 Rear Door Power Window Switch with Navy Blue Cover - USED
1985 300dt heat only on decelerating
My heat works intermitently and works good when it works but usualy comes on when I take my foot off the throttle any ideas as what may cause this mono valve changed about a week ago and no overheating. Could the aux water pump cause this?
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heat and cold issues
recently i was having problems with heat coming on when ac should have,mostly heat.ac works well.changed monovalve from mercedessource though old one was good,no change.got a used solenoid from mercedessource and then i only got cold,minimal heat.unplugged monovalve still cold even in defrost.whats the next step.aux pump??