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I am looking for a hood latch assembly for a w140 1993 300 SD with 245k
runs good but i think the previous owner snapped a piece of it off and just made a hole in the remaining part of the assembly and used a wire hook to open the hood. looks really bad. i brought the latch strap thinking it was missing then when i looked at it closer a whole chunk was missing. any leads would be helpful.
thanks,
Jay
Hi Kent,
We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?
Thanks much,
Brook and Justin
how do i go about greasing my antenna on the 300 sd?and im also looking for a new seal that goes around the base of the antenna mines missing and waters getting in my trunk my antenna works so id rather not have to replace my whole antenna to get a seal though i feel a good greasing wouldnt hurt it any thanks
I have a "rust bucket winter beater" 240D here in MT that starts great above 15 degrees F and really hard below (if at all). I ran diesel purge through the other night and did a compression check. All cylinders were 325-350 save #1 at 180. The valves were adjusted in September...but #1 on this 240D was the first valve I ever adjusted on this car (and it was hard to do, and hard to get the locking nuts tight.) Could I have screwed it up? The leakdown reading on #1 was 450...so methinks not valves...rings. How much compression can a bad valve adjustment lose?
Very often the motor starts but has low power, won't even rev up much. If I shut it off (often it takes two tries) and restart it it has full power. I have changed the filters, hand pump, changed the fuel tank screen and hose but it wasn't dirty) and blown out the fuel lines. Nothing helped. The problem seems to occur more often after I have driven, stopped a while and try to restart it. The problem suddenly appeared more than a year ago but has not gotten better or worse. I have asked all the local mercedes mechanics but no solution.
I have a 1979 300D with 300k+ miles. I had the intake and exhaust manifold off to install a new block heater. The intake ports were oil soaked, I know she's tired. I thought hey, I'll pull the head, do the valves and maybe throw some rings and bearings in while I'm in there... I stopped myself and thought I'd better see what this is going to cost. I can do the labor myself, so just need some parts. Well after putting together a parts list, I was looking at 2K plus machining if everything went well. SO HERE'S THE QUESTION, will I see more power in the old 300D after she has been overhauled?
i posted another forum but thinking on it if i might have a bad key switch as well.i have an 84 300sd when i turn the switch about half the time it wont crank it will go thru the glow plug cycle fine then just click sometimes or nothing at all but when i pop the hood and take the plastic cover off the wire harness on the passenger side and touch the two outside contacts together with a piece of wire it fires right up
i have a 84 300 sd i traded for from a friend of mine that was wrecked but ran.ive fixed the wreck damage replaced hood etc . ive cleaned banjo fittings changed all the filters and hoses new radiator new thermostat . ive checked the shut off valve with a vacuuum tester shut right off and holds pressure.i had a bunch of vacuum leaks . ive replaced alot of the fittings and got alot of it fixed but the car wont shut off from the key switch and while the engine seems to be strong the car wont shift and go above 30 at 30 35 mph its at 3000 rpm .
I own W124 230TE but the sls is not working for the last 6 month or maybe more, i try sending it to the workshop but end paying more $$$ but still no success, end up the system getting worst, i check & found the actcuator & the adjusting valve broken & missing. Now it just on the coil spring, with 2 adult seating at the rear the whole back sink down, the problem here is very difficult to get the part localy (Singapore)& costly to import the part.
I need more amperage for all the various electric stuff, including fuel heaters, in my car. I have read that the 89 Saab 900S (bosch AL129X) 115A alternator is a direct replacement for my standard MB unit. Does this work? Is there another alternator that will work? Thanks - Steven