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I've got an 89 300 SE that is an absolute slug when it is cold, and won't start when it is hot. Fuel pressure is within spec,and the coolant sensor is within range. I'm thinking the fuel accumulator is bad.Any help would be appreciated.
Hello
I sold my fourth and most recent Mercedes (1981 240D) in March. Couldn't stay away long, and am planning on looking at a 1979 300SD this weekend. I've had four diesels, (1982 240D, 1985 300SD, 1985 300D, 1981 240D) all automatic, since 1996.
The seller tells me that the transmission "sticks in second". Sounds to me like it might be a modulator valve issue, but since I can't even find a parts listing anywhere for a modulator valve for that car, I'm now wondering if that car came equipped with one at all.
I own two wagons, an 82 and an 85. The 82 has rebuilt rear suspension in the form of new accumulators, shocks and leveling valve. The 85 has had the shocks replaced some time ago, but is now mushy and leaks down over a period of 12-24 hours. I'd like to perform a preventive maintenance inspection and performance test to determine the condition of the system and point to component failures. Where is a good place to start?
I got a 87' 300D about a year ago. It had been sitting for several years I didn't know what to expect as far as power was concerned. Changed all the filters, and used the mercedessource injector cleaning system. The car ran much better. But still very sluggish. I hooked up a gauge to check the boost pressure. Im using original mercedes diesel engine sevice manual. It says that under full load at about 3500 rpm's I should have between .85 -.95 bar of pressure. All my gauges read in psi. When I converted .85-.95 bar to psi I get 12.32 -13.77 psi. Is that correct? Do these turbo's put out that much pressure.
I'm only getting a max of 3.75 PSI which is normal for american car engines.
So can some one tell me if this is suposed to put out 12-13 PSi of boost?
I just got my car back from the Upholstery shop. They were trying to do me a favor and dye the seats. The color they used is too light in my opinion. Does anyone know what I can use to remove the SEM aerosol vinyl dye without causing damage to the vinyl seats?
I have converted an 83 300TD and am quite happy with this car. I put Monarch nozzles in the injectors.
I have a 91 350SDL (118K) that I want to convert with a two tank system. I have it installed and checked out getting oil from the tank in the trunk where I have the WVO pump. No problems getting oil all the way through the system. The air has been pumped out.
I checked the WVO tank and made sure air could enter it as I pump WVO out of it.
I switch over when the oil is about 140 degrees and the engine soon starts chugging and then dies. If I switch back to diesel and crank for a bit, then I can restart the car.
Even if I switch over when the engine is warm and the car is just idling it is not very happy. (unlike my 300TD).
well i've done it now...was adjusting the valves on my 1980 300d and the #2 intake valve wouldn't adjust. so i kept turning until the adjusting nut was free of the rest of the assembly and is now in my greasy little hand. (i know, not so smart)any ideas how to compress the valve spring to get this little monster back where it belongs so i can actually adjust the valve, move on, and pretend this never happened? thanks.
victoria
124 body;when engine is cold,transmission slips from first to second and from second to third.When worm up everything is fine.I should mention that car was completelly flooded for a whole night under seven feet of water(local river) about year ago.But everything was drained several times and new filters and oil aded every time.HELP
I was troubleshooting the vacuum system and removed the bracket that holds the trunk lock actuator in place. Went in to get a glass of water and a not-so-helpful family member shut the trunk.
I can turn the key to my heart's content - it moves very freely because there's nothing holding the actuator in place. I have absolutely NO CLUE how to get in to the trunk now.
n/a i have a 87 sdl and my emergency brake pedal will no longer retract with hand pull.ive used my foot to lift it up,but now that will not work anymore.i
was told that my cable needs replacing and that its not in the foot pedal mechanism.has anyone replaced this-my indy shop said its a 7 hour labor job.i would like to do this myself and know that the front and rear seat carpet and console have to come out.any info on console removal or other tips .?