BENZ AID - COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

that noise is embarassing

I'm a proud new owner of a 300D that has excellent maintenance records. I'm going to take a stab at describing it so I can take a stab at fixing it. I remember this old Saab 900 I once had, the freeway driving was terrible like I was going to loose control of the steering or something. That was the ball joints tie rod problem. Since this site is so excellent, I did my research and may be the rubber bushings for the problem?

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79 300D won't start after storage! Help!

I just bought a 79 300D with 116,000 miles on it from an older gentleman. The car had been sitting for about 6mo and so I towed it home thinking it needed a battery charge or at the most new glow plugs. Well here is what I have done.... replaced glow plugs replaced glow plug relay charged battery to 100% primed fuel pump (cracked injectors til fuel came out) tried Kent's trick of putting STP/Oil mixture into the injectors ...Still nothing I am only getting a reading of 8 voltz at the glow plug fuse, the car cranks well but just won't fire. I am out of ideas....any thoughts?

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300te wagon self leveling rear suspension (hydropneumatic)/ replacing air cell accumulators

I have seen various postings re harsh rear ride on 300 te wagons frequently being caused by bad air cell accumulators, and that replacing both of these (about $100 per side) is likely the solution.

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Valve Adjustment Oddity

In adjusting my valves on my 300D nonturbo I am perplexed with an odd occurence. After adjusting a valve to the right gap and tightening the lock nut and adjusting nut, I check the gap again and all is good. But when I use a wrench to spin the valve stem using the two nuts, which turns the valve stem and the spring assembely, the gap changes, even though the nuts are tight. It will get either tighter or looser, but if I keep spinning it it will return to my original adjustment. That is if it gets tighter, by spinning it further it will eventually loosen up.

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New and need help please

Just bought an 84SD Turbo Diesel. Problems are as follows. 1) Transmission gears 1-3 work and shit fine. Shifting out of third and into fourth I have to let of the pedal around 3000 rpm and then it will shift into fourth. 2) The Driver's side front tire vibrates bad, the previous owner said that either the tie rod end or the ball joint was replaced but could not recall which one. When you turn the tire all the way to the left it looks like it leans out to far. 3) The high pressure line has a leak in it so I imagine I need to get that replaced rather rapidly.

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Biodiesel additives needed? + warnings

I converted the fuel lines on my '82 300DT and plan to run B100 biodiesel consistently. I heard about the need for adding lubricity to low sulfer petrodiesel but does anyone know if too low of lubricity is a problem with biodiesel? The only fuel addative I have used so far is a product called "Killem" to clean out the fuel tank.

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380 SL stalling

My '84 380 SL stalls when it has been run a while and I come to a stop. The car generally idles at 500 rpm when the car is in gear and the engine is good and warm. This seems low to me. I think I may have a bad idle speed control unit but am hesitant to go out and buy one until I am confident that is the source of the problem. The car runs very strong otherwise. Any tips or suggestions out there would be greatly appreciated.

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300D turbo running hot

What is the normal running temp for my 83 300D? Right now it gets hot quickly and moves up above 90C and will approach the 120C point if I run the AC. I've changed thermostats and flush the radiator and put in new coolant along with a water wetter. Seems to run somewhat cooler but not what it should be. The electric fan used to come on but doesn't now. What is the most common thing I should look for if the fan doesn't come on? Thanks, Dan

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