Automatic door locks on 1986 300sdl
My automatic door looks just stopped working (all of them), everything else is fine. Where do I start? Where is the vacuum controller for the locks?
thanks
scott
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My automatic door looks just stopped working (all of them), everything else is fine. Where do I start? Where is the vacuum controller for the locks?
thanks
scott
Everything on my car works great except the auto trans and I am by passing that problem by shifting manually.
Question to you "am I doing any damage" by not allowing trans to shift automatically?
Right now, 1st gear shifts out quickly below 10mph, 2nd shifts at 18mph with a huge flair and 3rd shifts a little firm.
What I have been doing is keeping 1st in gear until 17mph (high revs)then manually shifting to 2nd and the shift is smooth as can be! Shift into 3rd manually is around 35mph (high revs)also smooth as silk and then we are off to the races and as long as it's in high gear it will run all day without any problem.
What is your take on what I'm doing as far as future problems being created.
I am wondering if anyone sells the later style diaphragms for the door actuators. These are the little exterior diaphragms that slide down over the actuator rod that connect to door. I actually repaired one by impaling it on a small stick and spraying 3M rubberized spray over it which sealed the small tear -it then held vacuum! Can't help but think there is another piece of rubber fitting out there in the world that would probably work for such a simple application -any thoughts?
I am still trying to track down a baffling noise that one tech has said is a rod knock. The 300D has 117k miles and has had regular service by the M-B dealer where it was purchased. I am the second owner having purchased the car at 116k.
I have now driven the car 1,500 miles half of it on Interstates. Last weekend I did about five miles at 95mph. The noise hasn't changed the oil pressure still pegs above 3 bar at speed and just below 2 at idle.
I keep thinking that if this was a rod bearing it would have gotten much worse by now.
It only happens sometimes in the first 5 min or so of driving on cold mornings. The accelorater gets stuck on the down position. My brakes hold me back before I drop the transmission into neutral. Obvious concern here, any suggesstions would be appreciated.
Hello, the reverse lights in my 84' 300D are not working, the bulbs are good and all other lights now work as intended, I'm thinking maybe something with the neutral safety switch.
Hi everyone. I've been a Master guild tech for 9 years. This product calld diesel purge?
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Kent,
I am replacing the front seal in a 1982 300d. I used the kit and the seal installed quite easily. The problem occurs with the install of the balancer. The two pins are not attached to the balancer on the 300D as it was in my 240D balancer. The problem is that even when I heat up the balancer to 300 degrees in a toaster oven, (it can be positioned for nearly a minute) the pins do not fit into the holes. Every time I try to insert them, they go in partially and then stop with most of the pin sticking out or on a angle.
Hey, just got the replacement bracket from you guys today. I am going to put it in but for the life of me cannot get anyting on that bottom 13mm bracket bolt below the exhaust manifold loose to remove the old one. Any trick you can advise me on? I have tried an extension, I also tried freeing up the clamp on the turbo and turning it down but just canot get the angle to get it lose. It grips sometiems but at an angle and barely and I do not want to strip it. A shorty is too short to reach it from along side the block and my long 13mm hits the turbo.
Much thanks
The interior heat/ac fan im my 75 300D is squeaking in dash. Is this a difficult fix? If not, where would I find tips or instructions on how to repair? Thanks.