123 300TD Wagon SLS to standard shock conversion ??
I am considering changing my 85 wagon from sls to spring and shock. What springs and shocks do I need to order? Are there any other recommendations you might have ? Thank you.
CHECK OUT our new parts and kits for 2007 to 2012 models CLICK HERE to view all.
I am considering changing my 85 wagon from sls to spring and shock. What springs and shocks do I need to order? Are there any other recommendations you might have ? Thank you.
Driving down the interstate on my way to a gig (I'm a musician)- First noted the BATT light come on-Which I assumed correctly to be a shot belt- but also noted the engine was overheating.This is a new (3yrs old) OEM BEHR radiator I installed) Pulled over-antifreeze all over, radiator cap intact,but the top of the radiator was tilted about 20 degrees from horizontal, tilting up at the engine side, exposing the rubber tubular gasket around the top, and the metal mesh underneath. Obviously bent up somehow and in doing so disconnected the plastic housing.
n/a How do you remove the two top trim strips on the hard top. Do they snap out, or are they attatched from below.
My injection pump is failing. How do I purchase a used IP and be sure it will fit my engine? What, if any, part numbers are necessary to insure a proper match? And, where are the part numbers located on the IP?
Have the glow relay manual override installed. Last week I pressed the button, got glow for a few seconds, then a fast clicking. Was able to start the car. Now I get fast clicking & no start.
Battery tests fine. Tried powering the starter directly by jumping to the solenoid but I only get a click.
Not sure how to troubleshoot from here. Any tips would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Nicole
Making my question simpler. I am removing the engine plug to install the block heater. I am using a 19mm 1/2 inch drive Allen an extension and a 20 inch breaker bar. I have put some torque on it and it does not budge. I do not want to break anything. How much torque is safe? Any suggestions?
Thank you
I am having problems with my Injection Pump Shutoff Valve...when I first start the car up the Valve is in the upright position..when I shut the car off it stops down and shuts the engine off. Then when I come back to restart the car a few minutes later..and turn the key to start..the engine turns over but will not start because the Shutoff Valve is down, but when I immediately turn the key off then back on, it comes up and starts the car immediately.
I dropped my car off at an auto body shop for a minor repair.
When I picked up the car I noticed the knob that adjusts the clock was mysteriously broken off. I found the knob, but it does not look like it can be glued back on.
Do I have to replace the entire cluster? Can the knob be replaced from behind the cluster?
G
The steering box on my 280E is leaking fluid. It appears to be from the seal near where the pitman arm attaches to the output shaft. My local Mercedes specialist tells me that this is a time consuming and expensive repair involving a strip down and replacement of the (many) seals within the box. Although I intend to get this done in the next few months, is it worthwhile in the interim flushing the system and adding a power-steering stop leak product to the new fluid, or is this just a waste of time?
Hello,
I'm getting a clunking noise in the front end when I go over bumps. I poked around underneath and couldn't find any play or wear anywhere, so I took it to a local shop. The mech said I've got a bad sway bar bushing, and it's "impossible" to get at. He also said it's not worth fixing since it's not dangerous as is. Is he right? Anyone else have a similar problem with this bushing? I'm considering going to another shop for a second opinion, since this could be a safety issue.
Thanks!