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It has been said that if the rear crankshaft seal is leaking, it would come out of the opening in the bell housing of the transmission. And, that one should not be confused about oil coming from further forward on the engine.
Can I assume that if my torque converter was clean and dry, that the rear crankshaft seal is not leaking?
Has anyone developed a way to predict that your FM100 (or other WVO filter) is getting clogged? i have found that i don't have much warning when it is starting to affect the performance of my car. If i didn't have the option of switching to my second tank (diesel fuel) it might really get in trouble some time on a longer trip.
Is there a way to do it with a pressure gauge prior to the filter.....?
Interested in you comments.
Scott
Mercedessource Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedures calls for and shows the cam lobe to be straight up, ie vertical.
Mercedes Maintenance Manual: Tip of cam should be vertical in relation to the rocker arm.
Haynes states same and shows the lobe to be 1 o'clock. Diesel Giant says the same but shows vertical position in second photo of two lobe positions.
Vertical lobe or 1 o'clock looking front to firewall down the camshaft?
I am having one heck of a time trying to get my front driver seat out of this car. The problem is getting the seat to move forward enough in order to clear the rear bolts. I have looked at videos from MercedesSource and this seat will not clear the area for the rear bolts. Any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I've taken the door check apart... the strap rides in a groove, with
spring-loaded ball-bearings... I've cleaned & lubed it, but now can't
figure out how to compress the balls back into the strap, and put it
back into the body of the unit (the spring is *strong*, and the balls
are slippery!
Cheers.
Bill
126120 / 300SD
Just, by hand, tried to run it up to blow a little carbon out. Everything was fine , blew alittle out, she's purring like a kitten, but now it wo'nt shut off.
Thanks for the help,
Tim
Would it be possible for the compressor not to even kick on if the AC Relay is not working properly?
Car started with bad idle in neutral and park (fine in drive), then loss of power on hills, finally crept down to a crawl on highway, eventually stalling. If allowed to sit for a while, would run another mile or so then the same thing. Had been set up and used with veggie oil (2 tank Plantdrive system)but after having this same problem last fall, system was bypassed to run directly on diesel. At that time and over the winter gas tank was removed and cleaned out, screen cleaned, engine breather cleaned out, filters changed (more than once) and the atmospheric compensator replaced.
I recently purchased a 1983 300D with about 148k miles. There are a couple items that don't work, but I'll limit this post to the most critical. On the dashboard, the oil pressure indicator is at zero and does not move at all. I am reluctant to drive the car until I can find out if it is a faulty guage or if there is in fact no oil pressure. Any ideas?
(The other items that don't work are the tachometer and the cigarette lighter)
I just changed both fuel filters and the oil on my 350SD and on my test drive the car made a strange noise or vibration at 1800 rpm. It almost seems like a cavitation. Motor mounts are good....I did a diesel purge 3000 miles ago....and it's normal and smooth at all other speeds. It has a newer non-rod bending 603. New nozzles needed??