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This WUR has been opened up and inspected internally. It has not been tested. There may be some hardware missing, so you would need your WUR to complete an overhaul. No instructions included, but can be found online. How important is this? Watch the video below.
This WUR has been opened up and inspected internally. It has not been tested. There may be some hardware missing, so you would need your WUR to complete an overhaul. No instructions included, but can be found online. How important is this?
This is an untested original sealed SINGLE vacuum WUR with a rebuild kit included. No instructions included, but can be found online. How important is this? Watch the video below.
This is a sealed WUR as it was removed from the engine. It has not been tested, but it is complete. It is the early style with NO vacuum connection. An overhaul kit is included as shown. No instructions included, but can be found online. How important is this? Watch the video below.
This WUR is very simple in design and has no internal diaphrams. It is also quite short compared to the other types. No instructions are included, but they are readily available on the internet by doing some google searches.
When it is time to change the rear end fluid, why not get rid of your old rusty drain plug(s) and replace one or both with stainless steel plugs?
In this 25-minute, very detailed instructional video, Kent will show you how to use his special tool to remove the guide pins holding the top timing chain guide rails in the cylinder heads.
This is a must-have tool if you own a 1970 to 1991 M116 or M117 V8 engine. It will also work on older six-cylinder gas and four and 5-cylinder engines from the 1960s up through 1985. Note: The included video instructions only cover removal and installation of the pin.
These have the "right" look and are in mint condition—high and Low beams for both sides.
An often overlooked aged rubber part on these older v8 engines. No instructions included but can be found online.
A BIG C-clamp like this is pretty handy to have around your shop, but it is a must if you plan to open up your 1980s-era ZF aluminum power steering pump.
BRAND NEW old stock. Never mounted on a dash. No longer made. Rare find.
These 8-minute video instructions are now included with Kent's basic and deluxe Version 3 fuel injection pressure tester. You will learn some tips and tricks on how to pressure test a 1976 to 1985 fuel-injected V8 engine using one of our test kits.
This fitting is not included in our deluxe pressure tester or the builder's kit. If you plan on pressure testing your 1976 to 1985 M110 fuel system, this fitting is highly recommended.
It is included with our deluxe pressure tester but not with the builder's kit. You will need this attachment to hook up our tester to the fuel rail on a D-Jetronic V8 engine.
The email questions from owners trying to get their old fuel-injected 1970 to 1993 Mercedes running right drive him crazy. Most follow a pattern, and most will require a fuel injection system flow and pressure test to troubleshoot the problem.
Will NOT fit European Models. Will NOT fit 560SL. Will NOT fit 350SL and early 450SL. Actual parts shown. See details below.
Would you like to make your 560SL engine compartment look like new again. This part is one of the biggest offenders as they all turn this weird yellow color, making it appear old and fading.
Would you like to make your 107 engine compartment look like new again. This part is one of the biggest offenders as they all turn this weird yellow color, making it appear old and fading. Cap is not included.
Almost all of these seals are now severly compressor or rotten. Do not allow water to get down into the blower motor cavity. This is a very common source of hidden rust the the R107's. Other parts related to this seal are listed below.
Sometimes, it can be very frustrating to "bang in" those chrome moldings below the door on an old R-107. The clips enlarge or they are too deep in the rocker panel. We have found that these white plugs work better than the standard red plugs used on other models of that error.
Old plastic often just breaks. If you find one or more broken on your rocker trim, it is best to replace all of them. This kit is for one side ( usually requiring 7 or 8 clips). Order 2 at checkout for a full set right and left. Rocker molding insertion clips are available separately.
These instructions are specific to the axle boot replacement kit we sell but can also be "generic" in application to most models with rubber axle boots. They come as a PDF in a 2-up format.
Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your 1972 to 1985 R107 steering tight again. That includes the 350SL,450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC and 380SL. Be sure to get a front-end alignment after installing these parts.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will show you a trick that few know about. You can get those tapered shaft ball joints ( like to find on tie rods and control rods) loose without damaging the rubber boot. It can be faster and less painful than using traditional methods.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will share a few tips that will aid you when installing new front subframe mounts in the 1972 to 1989 R107 and the 1968 to 1976 W115 and W114. These are in addition to the PDF instructions he has written. ( see below).
Kent recently turned 78 years old and has decided to start selling his Mercedes collection.
If you have one of our pressure brake bleeders, you can easily attach this wand to the end of the hose by removing the brake master cylinder reservoir cap. You can place the exact amount of fluid in the tank, hang the wand in the fill hole, lock the valve open, and walk away.
For 1973 owners: make sure your cap matches the one in the picture ( all orange). Wires are soft and flexible. You can see very little wear inside the cap.
Quality new aftermarket molded rubber seals (left and right) as shown. Old, deformed, or deteriorated seals are a common cause of water leaks into the trunk.
The wiring plug covers must be removed with a special tool in order to install these boots. The old covers will break when you try to remove them. We recommend you buy new wiring covers when replacing either my aftermarket custom-made silicone boots or the original rubber boots.
You can use this kit to remove the wires and just replace the plug cover on your D-Jet V8 engine. If you plan to install new boots, you will need to remove and replace the plug cover, and the special tool Kent provides will help you do that.
In Kent's 32-minute video on rewiring the plugs on your D-jetronic fuel injectors, he will walk you through the two options on how you can use this kit - then show you how in do it and finally give you some tips on automotive wire splicing using the best tools and supplies.
On most D-jetronic engines, the fuel injector wiring plugs are hard and brittle, and the boots are torn or missing altogether. You may say, "If it is working, why fix it? Watch the videos below to understand why this is important and how easy it would be for you to do it yourself.
Motor recently bench tested by Kent. The unit runs smoothly and gears are in good condition.
These old power non-tilting sunroofs are now 45-plus years old. These are specifically the sunroofs that used the early-style rectangular sunroof motor and separate drive mechanism connected by a rubber drive bushing. They did not come with deflector air dams.
Due to its exceptional condition, this is a truly appreciating collector car, and its value will continue to rise in the coming years. It would be very difficult to find a nicer one than this for the price.
This is the FIRST thing you should do on your D-Jet V8 engine. Rather than explain everything in this kit and what it can do for you, watch Kent's YouTube video below. If you don't do this, you will be guessing and spending money forever trying to get the engine to run right!
Did the engine just quit? Does it just not start even with prolonged cranking? What could it be? The first thing you want to determine with most older cars is whether there is spark to the plugs.
For repairing non-structural areas only with Miracle Paint and fiberglass.
These two types of fiberglass can bridge over small to medium rust holes and give a lasting repair to what otherwise becomes a very time-consuming and expensive repair.
The original fuel filter has a rigid right-angle fitting, as shown in the pictures below. We do not provide this fitting in our fuel delivery kits as more often than not it can be removed from your old filter and installed in the new filter we provide.
PLEASE NOTE: EACH HOLDER HAS SIX SLOTS
When removing valve covers or changing wires, replace these with new ones. They may look good, but they usually break due to engine heat and age.
New black studded cap as shown.
This is a set of four STAINLESS STEEL custom machined Torx head door striker bolts. They will eliminate many headaches related to door closing issues on the W126 and 560SL doors.
Left and right door strikers as shown. No extras
For later 1973 to 1980, 4.5 V8 engines - 450SL, 450SLC, 450SE, and 450SEL. Very nice set of high-performance wires for your 450V8. But we ask you to check your distributor cap before ordering as there was a change in 1973 and even some 1974 models may have the older orange/ brown color cap.
Kent has been "into" lubrication since his younger years, flying and working on airplanes over 50 years ago.
Kent has been "into" lubrication since his younger years, flying and working on airplanes over 50 years ago.