Diesel Engine Specific Aid

Turn signal problem-81 300D

I have a 1981 300D. On a recent road trip I had to run my hazards for an extended period of time while in the mountains (why I had to have them on is another story: throttle pivot mount failure - argh!). Anyway, at some point, the flashers just quit. Now I have no turn signals. I checked the fuses, and they're fine; I also checked the light bulbs - all are okay. Could the hazard have blown out a relay somewhere? If so, where, and how would I know if that's the problem? Any other ideas? Thanks! Mike

Chassis Model Number

W123

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What's the firewall throttle bushing called, where do I get one?

My '81 300TD TurboDiesel wagon has some kind of throttle bushing (rubbery filled metalic thing that screws onto the firewall and holds the throttle linkage from firewall to the "stop engine" lever on valve cover) on the firewall that seems to be deteriorating and the acelerator is becoming very mushy. I'm sure I'm only getting about 1/3 of the actual throttle so I'd like to replace this. I don't know what to call it, let alone where to get it. If anyone has any knowledge as to what this is called, I'd appreciate it. Thanks so much!

Chassis Model Number

W123

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hard start, air in lines?

Hello, I have a 1985 Mercedes 300tdt which I have converted with an Elsbett system for wvo. It has been great for 2 years. I now have a starting problem, which might be totally unrelated, I think it is an air leak in the fuel lines. It takes two to start the car, one to turn the key and pound the petal and another to prime the pump. In colder weather it is more difficult. i suspect a gasket or seal, i just am wondering how to isolate the problem. Is this a common diesel thing or unique to veggie conversions?

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Chassis Model Number

W123

poorly running 240D

The guy who posted this video on youtube.com has been trying to fix this car for several weeks. He bought the car recently, could not get it started, so he pulled the head off, found a cracked piston, replaced it along with all piston rings on all other pistons. He claims that the compression is up to 300-350 psi in all cylinders now. The engine runs terrible. The ALDA is turned all the way out. he lives in area with 7500 ft altitude above sea level. It looks like his injection timing or valve timing is way off(timing chain was not replaced, valve adjustment was done.

Chassis Model Number

W123

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A/C Not Working on 1980 300SD After Complete Rebuild/Recharge

Replaced a/c compressor, evacuated and charged a/c, tested for leaks (found none), replaced a/c belt, replaced receiver dryer, replaced expansion valve, flushed a/c lines. I had cool air (not cold - about 60 degrees at vent) for about three days. Now the air is neither cool nor dry. With the a/c switched on at start up, I hear a squeal. Accelerating eliminates squeal and it doesn't return. Belt is tight. Everything seems to be right but, something isn't and I can't figure it out. Can anyone help me diagnose and fix this?

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Chassis Model Number

W116

that noise is embarassing

I'm a proud new owner of a 300D that has excellent maintenance records. I'm going to take a stab at describing it so I can take a stab at fixing it. I remember this old Saab 900 I once had, the freeway driving was terrible like I was going to loose control of the steering or something. That was the ball joints tie rod problem. Since this site is so excellent, I did my research and may be the rubber bushings for the problem?

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Valve Adjustment Oddity

In adjusting my valves on my 300D nonturbo I am perplexed with an odd occurence. After adjusting a valve to the right gap and tightening the lock nut and adjusting nut, I check the gap again and all is good. But when I use a wrench to spin the valve stem using the two nuts, which turns the valve stem and the spring assembely, the gap changes, even though the nuts are tight. It will get either tighter or looser, but if I keep spinning it it will return to my original adjustment. That is if it gets tighter, by spinning it further it will eventually loosen up.

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Chassis Model Number

W123

New and need help please

Just bought an 84SD Turbo Diesel. Problems are as follows. 1) Transmission gears 1-3 work and shit fine. Shifting out of third and into fourth I have to let of the pedal around 3000 rpm and then it will shift into fourth. 2) The Driver's side front tire vibrates bad, the previous owner said that either the tie rod end or the ball joint was replaced but could not recall which one. When you turn the tire all the way to the left it looks like it leans out to far. 3) The high pressure line has a leak in it so I imagine I need to get that replaced rather rapidly.

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Biodiesel additives needed? + warnings

I converted the fuel lines on my '82 300DT and plan to run B100 biodiesel consistently. I heard about the need for adding lubricity to low sulfer petrodiesel but does anyone know if too low of lubricity is a problem with biodiesel? The only fuel addative I have used so far is a product called "Killem" to clean out the fuel tank.

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Chassis Model Number

W123

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