W123, Interior

When my '82 300DT lost power on the freeway I managed to nurse it to my destination and got out my fuel spare filters. I installed a new prefilter and main filter, bypassed the FM10 water separator, pumped on the hand pump, and then found that the lack of a 17mm end wrench made bleeding the lines at the injectors real difficult as all I had was an adjustable wrench. Too bulky for that job. Then I screwed up by not reading Kent's instructions carefully and ran my battery down before the fuel lines were bled enough to get the engine going.

I drove 15 mi to work, via high way, with e brake partially on. When I got there, the wheel was smoking. I pour gallons of water on them and let it cool down and drove again for about 10 mi. Now I found the brake didn't seems to returned after it's applied, the rear wheels would be almost fully locked after no more than 10 times of braking. The more the brake is applied, the the shallower the pedal gets. So I towed the car back home. What could the heat do to have caused my rear brake to stuck whenever it's applied?

I've got a '83 240D with Power Steering. Riding down the highway, the steering has quit a bit of play. I'd estimate I can turn the wheel about an inch (5-10 degrees) without any noticeable effect on the wheels. With the car parked and off, if I grab the input shaft to the steering gear box I can turn is about 5-10 degrees before I see any noticeable movement underneath at the control arm. SO I believe most of the "slop" I am experiencing is coming from the gear box and not further down (tie-rods, bushings, etc.). I noticed in the shop manual that there is an adjustment procedure for the gear box. It looks simple enough but shows torque curves through the steering handle travel.