W123
1984 300D Throttle linkage ball and sockets
Hi all. Getting reay to adjust the valves for the first time and I am going to take pictures of the linkage and everything else to make sure it goes back the same way. Does anyone know the easiest and most efficient method to getting the linkage out of the way yet keep most of it together to minimize the work.
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1984 300D Turbo Injector heat shields
I just bought a 1984 300D Turbo Diesel with 204,000 miles and it ran great on the 700+ mile drive home getting 25 MPG with lots of power. The injector return lines were leaking a little so I got the Bio hose kit from Mercedessource and installed it last weekend. I pulled all 5 injectors out (keeping them in order) to get the old lines off (they all broke when I pulled on them) and put everything back together per instructions, but minus new heat shields. I now have the following problems that were not present before.
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1984 300D, little bell shaped device?
Hi all. I just installed new Bilsteins all the way around and the difference in the ride is noticeable. As I was on my back (driveway project as Mercedessource calls it) putting the driver's side rear shock in, I noticed a little bell-shaped part with a small fuel line or hose connected to it. It is located just in front of the rear wheel attached to under-chassie and in from the rocker panel. I really didn't bother tracing where the hose led to or came from and I don't know if there is one on the other side. My only guess is a vent for the fuel system.
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Banjo Bolt (Short) Diesel ALDA, Injection Pump Oil Line, and Water Pump Bypass Pipe - New
All Models Rear Muffler Rubber Stop Bumper
Rear shocks 1984 300D
Does anyone know where to access the top nuts to the rear shocks on a 1984 300D Turbo Diesel? I suspect that the back of the rear seat has to be removed as I see nothing in the trunk. Looking for confirmation on this.
Thanks
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Dash smoke 1977 300D
Have experienced following:
1. Attempt to start - no crank and smoke comes from driver's side speaker area. Wait 10 minutes, try again, cranks and starts fine with no dash smoke.
2. Attempt to start later - again no crank, more smoke. Wait 10 minutes, cranks slowly but starts, no smoke.
Examination under dash reveals oil around ignition switch. My current thinking is to rebuild the vacuum pump and clean out all the vacuum lines I can reach.
What to do about the ignition switch? As I understand it, the switch is attached to a vacuum element that must have been polluted. It seems like the switch itself is now polluted too. Should I replace switch alone after vacuum pump rebuild? Or switch and vacuum element together?