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Can anyone tell me how to remove the center vents from the dashboard? is this even possible without pulling the whole dash out? i have some trash behind one of the vents and I cant get it out without removing the adjustable vent! Thanks for any help!!!!!
GLIDEHM
Changed my valve guide seals using your kit about a week ago. Very good information provided in the book. Thanks.
I have not seen a reduction in oil consumption and still have a good bit of smoke at start up. My car is burning approx. 2 quarts per 300 miles. 211,000 on the clock. Runs great, seems to have full power and starts up every morning. What should be my next step in reducing the amount of oil being burned? (I have no leaks) I am using delo 400 15/40 or rotella 15/40.
Any advice would be appreciated... thank you.
After pulling up the front carpet pads up on my 1983 TD wagon, I found a layer of fractured/broken material between the carpet and the metal of the lower firewall. Outer material is hard and the inner layer is a black insulation/foam. I suppose since it's all broken and falling apart I have no choice but to remove it....I'm just wondering if this is normal on the TD, since I know my 240D has nothing like it, and what (if anything) it means that it has all broken apart?
Thanks!
I was checking out the alert section of this fantastic web site and one of the alerts was on the flex couplers on the older high mileage cars. A week later mine went. I should of inspected them imediatly and saved some head aches. Luckily I do have a parts car which is a 1981 and the drive line appears to be in good shape. I have ordered new flex plates, the center bearing and associated rubber parts. Anything special I should look for when replacing the drive line. I'll let you know how it goes and what all the calateral damage is. Moral to the story read the alerts and act quickly.
First off... Thanks so much for the easy to follow manual on changing valve guide seals. I finished that good little job about a week ago. I am trying to reduce oil consumption in my 240d. Much to my dismay, the old seals seemed to (to me) be in good condition. I have not noticed a reduction in oil use. My benz has 211,000 on the odo. What should be the next step in trying to kill this tapeworm? I am burning about 2 u.s. quarts per 300 miles. Car starts well and runs like a dream... Does not lose power going up hills and will easily cruise at 75 on the highway. I am perplexed.
Hi Kent,
We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?
Thanks much,
Brook and Justin
I have a "rust bucket winter beater" 240D here in MT that starts great above 15 degrees F and really hard below (if at all). I ran diesel purge through the other night and did a compression check. All cylinders were 325-350 save #1 at 180. The valves were adjusted in September...but #1 on this 240D was the first valve I ever adjusted on this car (and it was hard to do, and hard to get the locking nuts tight.) Could I have screwed it up? The leakdown reading on #1 was 450...so methinks not valves...rings. How much compression can a bad valve adjustment lose?
Very often the motor starts but has low power, won't even rev up much. If I shut it off (often it takes two tries) and restart it it has full power. I have changed the filters, hand pump, changed the fuel tank screen and hose but it wasn't dirty) and blown out the fuel lines. Nothing helped. The problem seems to occur more often after I have driven, stopped a while and try to restart it. The problem suddenly appeared more than a year ago but has not gotten better or worse. I have asked all the local mercedes mechanics but no solution.
