Some of Kent's Mercedes Benz Collection on Sale! CLICK HERE to view all.
My cars blower was erratic (sometimes it would operate on high, sometimes it would operate on only medium, sometimes it would barely blow) and I thought that either my switch was malfunctioning or the fan motor was going out. It seemed that it might be the motor since even the defrost manual high speed setting was unpredictable. As of yesterday it has stopped all together. Is this the normal failure mode for fan motor or switch?
Help!
I just completed a diesel purge on my 1983 CD, I changed both fuel filters. With the secondary fuel filter nut loose, I used the manual fuel pump to remove the air. I have a feeling the pump is not working.... After 15-20 pumps with the manual hand pimp, I tightened the secondary nut. At this stage the primary filter was 1/4 full. I ran the engine, it ran for about 30-40 seconds then died. The primary fuel pump is full. I repeated the air purge procedure again... no success. the engine will not start.
Can you please advise next steps... advanced thanks!
My 1983 300d has roughly 12-15 in/Hg of vacuum at idle. It fluctuates very very rapidly between 12 and 15 on the gauge. Does this mean that the check valve and the vacuum pump are bad? When you rev the engine up to 2000-2500 rpms, I get around 20-22 in/Hg and it still fluctuates very rapidly. I am checking the vacuum at the main servo line that runs to the brake booster. Any insight would be greatly appreciated bcs the price of these parts is defintely not cheap. Thanks for the help!!!!!!
GLIDEHM
Can anyone tell me how to remove the center vents from the dashboard? is this even possible without pulling the whole dash out? i have some trash behind one of the vents and I cant get it out without removing the adjustable vent! Thanks for any help!!!!!
GLIDEHM
Changed my valve guide seals using your kit about a week ago. Very good information provided in the book. Thanks.
I have not seen a reduction in oil consumption and still have a good bit of smoke at start up. My car is burning approx. 2 quarts per 300 miles. 211,000 on the clock. Runs great, seems to have full power and starts up every morning. What should be my next step in reducing the amount of oil being burned? (I have no leaks) I am using delo 400 15/40 or rotella 15/40.
Any advice would be appreciated... thank you.
After pulling up the front carpet pads up on my 1983 TD wagon, I found a layer of fractured/broken material between the carpet and the metal of the lower firewall. Outer material is hard and the inner layer is a black insulation/foam. I suppose since it's all broken and falling apart I have no choice but to remove it....I'm just wondering if this is normal on the TD, since I know my 240D has nothing like it, and what (if anything) it means that it has all broken apart?
Thanks!
I was checking out the alert section of this fantastic web site and one of the alerts was on the flex couplers on the older high mileage cars. A week later mine went. I should of inspected them imediatly and saved some head aches. Luckily I do have a parts car which is a 1981 and the drive line appears to be in good shape. I have ordered new flex plates, the center bearing and associated rubber parts. Anything special I should look for when replacing the drive line. I'll let you know how it goes and what all the calateral damage is. Moral to the story read the alerts and act quickly.
First off... Thanks so much for the easy to follow manual on changing valve guide seals. I finished that good little job about a week ago. I am trying to reduce oil consumption in my 240d. Much to my dismay, the old seals seemed to (to me) be in good condition. I have not noticed a reduction in oil use. My benz has 211,000 on the odo. What should be the next step in trying to kill this tapeworm? I am burning about 2 u.s. quarts per 300 miles. Car starts well and runs like a dream... Does not lose power going up hills and will easily cruise at 75 on the highway. I am perplexed.
Hi Kent,
We attempted to install rear shocks today and when we came to the step of loosening the top of the shock with the two nuts (where you recommend a 17" ratcheting wrench), we're having trouble. The nuts are stuck and just spin together and holding the top stud with a wrench is causing the metal on the stud to round off the corners and not give. What do you suggest to get this to break free?
Thanks much,
Brook and Justin