1985 300D factory alarm gone berserk
With no warning, my factory car alarm suddenly would not let me drive the car without the alarm (horns) blaring. I had to cut the wires to the horns to drive. I don't want to continue driving without a horn.
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With no warning, my factory car alarm suddenly would not let me drive the car without the alarm (horns) blaring. I had to cut the wires to the horns to drive. I don't want to continue driving without a horn.
Fuel Squirts out, in a steady stream, of Electro-Hydraulic Actuator when starting and running. Then, the fuel that is squirted out, flows through a manufactured hole in the Upper Intake Manifold. Ultimately, the fuel runs down into Lower Collector.
Never did this before winter.
What's the deal?
Engine would not start after shutoff from normal driving. No power to fuel pumps. Fuel pump relay and voltage overload relay have been replaced with no effect. Power is coming in to fuel pump relay. Is there any other relay/junction/etc between fuel pump relay and pumps?
Any advice/guidance will be deeply appreciated, love this car.
Hi Team,
Australia never got the factory turbodiesels. Aside from a lower quoted output from the 950, just wondering what other differences there are between it and the .951 and if there are any issues in parts swapping, transmissions, lines etc.
Thanks
Dweezil
1933 300D altnator not charging Instaled a new altnator with new voltage relator. Still not charging. What is the little plug with 3 wires coming into a plug and 1 wire pluging into the altnator? Can and should this be replaced/ Wher can I get this box ?
87 300D
Yesterday my light went funny. The light monitor on the dash came on and the right side parking lights and the dash lights quit working. I pulled tested and changed front and rear bulbs but no change. Went to the fuse box and checked all the fuses with a test light. Located what i think is the light monitor unit right behind the fuse box. all seemed ok. Where do I go now. I'm lost.
Thanks Mike
About two months after replacing the vacuum pump, a sharp "ticking" sound started that seemed to come from the front of the engine, and that varied directly with the engine speed. Checking the power steering pump reservoir revealed it was about half full. I added fluid but the ticking was still there.
The next thing I did was to adjust the valves. While turning the engine by hand for this procedure, I noticed a sharp-but-hollow sounding "pop" coming up from deep inside the engine at the timing chain. The sound occurred at what seemed to be every complete revolution of the engine. It may have been every half-revolution, but in any case, the "popping" was occurring at consistent points in the rotation of the engine. I know the vacuum pump opens up into the crankcase...
Old axel had enough play to remove. Can't get new axel compressed enough to get into wheel hub (can type). Several Internet articles just said to jack up differential housing. This still does not give enough room. Looks like no way to remove hub without removing lower control arm. Any ideas or tricks to this?
Thanks,
Mike
3 months ago I replaced all my glow plugs and used the reamer tool to clean out the carbon build up.
3 weeks ago the glow light stayed on after the engine started. I stopped twice on the way home to kill the engine and restart it.
3 hours ago my glow light mostly stayed on and I hit every green light on my commute. So I didn't stop and restart the engine. By the time I got home the battery was almost dead. Now I'm charging the battery and wondering about tomorrow.
Hot air is coming out of the appropriate places on drivers side, but ambient temp air from the passenger side. Buttons on dash change air routing but still temps remain as above. I have the automatic climate control. Both hoses of the monovalve are hot. Any suggestions. Days of internet searching have come up empty. 1985 300 D eurodelivery model 280,000 mi.
Thanks,
Paul Sipe