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I have 1984 300D TD which has a differential whine when driven at approx 50 MPH .Noise disappears as soon as throttle released but returns when re applied. Diff has new seals, carrier bearings and appears to be in good condition.Mileage 249800mls. Car very well maintained. Any ideas????
I was driving down the street and my hood came unlatched and bent backward over the windshield. (I don't think I had it latched completely down.) I was able to stop and bend it back down, but the hood is dented and the driver's side (large) hood spring came loose.
How do I replace the spring? I am going to replace the hood (but have not yet.) will it be easier to do with the hood off? I barely get my hand down next to the fuse box say nothing of figure out how to stretch that spring into place. Is there a special tool for this job?
Thanks
Scott
My 1977 280e runs roughly. New fuel pump, fuel filter, the usual tune up. It is a little hard to start when cold or warm. It backfires out of the intake when you step on the throttle. I have disconnected the intake vacuum line and plugged it that leads to the cabin. The EGR valve has been plugged off as well. Most places I have read always say the backfire issue is almost always vacuum related in this car.I've checked all of the rubber vacuum connectors and they seem to be good and snug fitting.THe car idles at around 550 RPMs.
Does anyone know if you need to check/adjust oil level in the injector pump after an in service primer fuel pump change? I know the factory manual says to fill it when you put on a new injection pump.
Thanks
Mike
First, I was removing my fuel injectors to do a compression test, I looked in each of the pre-chambers for oil and carbon (as instructed). I found what appears to be in inconsistency. when looking into my number 3 pre-chamber I see a normal appearing tip of the glow plug and another "thing"--it is bulbous in the middle and then thins out as it goes toward the ends of the chamber (on the "normal" five chambers. But in number 3, it appears that in just this chamber the part does NOT to extend all of the way through the chamber on both sides (only one side). Is this normal? what is this part? Should I be concerned? (i have a picture but i can't figure out how to load it into this text box)
I have a 1985 Turbo federal model...no particulate filter. I bought the turbo rebuild kit and tested the turbo beforehand. It only boosts to 7.5 psi without the installation of the kit (in summeer). I have not rebuilt the turbo yet. The car is extremely slow off the line and in cold weather....I can floor it for three minutes with no increase in RPM. (Some people even cut my block heater cord off because it smoked so much....as if that would stop me!)
The seat will go back but not forward!
When I move the switch forward I can hear the relay click.
The seat back doesn't work, it will move forward, not back.
all the other movements work fine
Any help/ thoughts?
Happy Kringle all
I'm in my 3rd year of running WVO trouble free in my 82 240 using your single tank system with boost pump except for a couple of self inflected problems ( dewatering). I up my mix of diesel in the colder months and run 100% diesel in December, January and February turning off the glow plug heater. Last year I left the system in the loop mode with no side effect thinking the loop will aid in minimizing gelling. I'm in to the same cycle this year . Any downside to looping straight diesel in cold weather?
thanks,
Fred
I have a 300D with 250k. recently the car wouldn't start or try to fire up at all until you shut the switch and try a second time and it fires right up. this is a recurring problem but it will always fire right up on the second try. The fuel lines have been replaced a few months ago all the way to the tank and there are no fuel leaks anywhere so I figured the lift pump might be loosing its prime and I tried a little experiment. Before starting up in the morning I used the hand primer pump about 10 strokes and she fired right up first try.