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Anyone have a cure for a sun visor slipping down? Slips down only about an inch and a half and if I push it back up it stays up only fro a few minutes and then slips down again. Any tips would be appreciated - hgb
Today I shut the door on my 300SD with the window down for the first time, and wouldn't you know it, now it gets stuck about half way up. I pulled the door assembly off but can not figure out how to get the window back in the track, it is the leading edge (towards the front of the car) that has jumped the track. Does anyone have some advice, or a direction I can look to get my window back where it belongs? Thank you in advance for your attention to my problem.
Brad
i have a 1983 Mercedes 300td. my problem lies between hood and the bracket under hood. they have come apart. it is part of the hood its self. it is stamped sheet metal part that is suppose to be solidly attached. it looks like it is suppost to be a stiffening bracket what would be a good adhesive to get it to be glued solidly so it stops rattling and is firmly attached?
n/a 1983 300SD passenger seat switch, the pin that controls the seat back broke off. The switch is hard wired and can not be removed by unpluging like the drivers switch can. I have opened up and replaced parts in the removable switches, but I am afraid to open this switch because I do not know what will happen when I pop the cover off, as I can not lay it on its back. Any Ideas or help are welcome.
1984 300SD I recently replaced the alt & water pump. When replacing the new belts I understand there might be a special process to tightening. Is this so or is it like most cars start at the crank and work your way out. I had also replaced the alt adjuster arm. I appreciate your insight.
I recently did the conversion to WVO with the mercedessource kit and things were going well. As I started adding more WVO to the tank and got up to around 90% WVO and 10% Diesel I noticed the engine starting to hestitate after running it for 10-25 minutes. It began by hesitating at 75 on the freeway, every five minutes it would get worse and worse until finally I could only get the car up to 25. The filters looked fine so I tried adding 5 gallons of diesel fuel and the problem started to go away as the diesel got mixed in, acceleration came back.
Car came with badly damaged trunk lock - vacuum system not working so previous owner bashed open the lock with a hammer and screwdriver!?! Anyway, anyone know where I can get a replacement lock with a key before I start searching salvage yards?
This seems to be an overly common problem on the 123 chassis, yet I can't seem to find anyone else talking about it.
The interior color-coded plastic surrounds for the doors and hatch are all warped and buckled. Seems like every 123 I've seen that wasn't always garage kept has this problem.
My question is, what do most folks do about it? Rip it all off and leave the painted metal showing?
Hi,
My diesel is noisy at highway speed and hard acceleration. It sounds like a bad bearing somewhere. Maybe the turbo since it is linked to acceleration. How would you diagnose? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I have a 1985 300d. The torsion bar end broke off at the control arm. It is a massive job to replace the whole thing, but I understand there is an end piece with bushings that can be welded on. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks