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I have a single tank wvo conversion on a 1984 300D. I currently have the following fuel routing: Fuel tank to pre-filter to boost pump to vormax fuel filter to heat exchanger to stock system. Is there a problem with me putting the vormax filter first, then the pump? In other words, is it ok if the pump pulls through the filter instead of pushes?
Thanks.
greetings,
looking at buying a 1985 300D with 173k. i am going over this very nice looking car with a fine tooth comb. i like this car. it appears to be a "loved" MB. it started right up after siting for a a year or so. all was happy until i checked the transmission fluid. it was so dark that i thought someone put rotella in it. and it stank like a burned up transmission. i have to test drive it yet, but i was leary already.
any chance that this is just "spent" fluid. or does it sound like a rebuilt would be in order?
how durable are these auto transmissions?
Ooops.... While cleaning fuel injectors and installing new Monark nozzles I may have (repeat MAY have) inadvertently mixed up two of the lower body parts. The injectors are cleaned and assembled and look terrific. I am wondering if I am ok to install them and if there's a problem it will be obvious; or, if I need to proceed to things like bench testing or other procedures. That would be sad. Ideas?
Cheers, George
I have gone through the vacuum lock lines and tested each door to make sure I dont have a leake. The doors will all lock when the drivers door is pushed down from inside or with the key. But will not unlock the other 3 doors when the drivers door is opened. The trunk lock holds vacuum but does not unlock other than with the key. When I push the drivers door down the motor in the trunk comes on and goes off. When the drivers door is opened (lock pulled up) is the motor in the trunk to come on and push air to the other 3 doors to unlock them?
Thanks for your help Jim Hunt.
Hi. Wanted to get your idea on why I would be getting abnormal tire wear on the inside of BOTH tires. I do have some steering play which I attribute to needing either new idler arm bushings, which I just ordered or perhaps in need of a reconditioned steering box. However, I can't see this causing the inside of both tires to wear. Is it possible the camber is set too far somehow? Thoughts?
Thanks
Dave
I ran a little low on coolant the other day (not sure why...), and the engine got hot (almost 200 degrees according to the gauge on the dash). after i filled the radiator, i noticed that oil had started leaking from somewhere on the engine. a can of brake cleaner revealed that the oil is leaking from under the oil filter element housing cap. so i changed the oil and filter and filter housing cap o-ring ('cause it was time for an oil change anyway), and tightened it down really tight, and it is still leaking. A LOT.
Will the Diesel Fuel Trunk Smell Fix Kit (DSL-123TSF) also fit the 116 chassis, specifically a 1980 300SD?
1982 300D.."300D Dies under load" I have isolated fuel: changed filters, removed fuel tank and had cleaned, screen in tank cleaned,purged system with cleaner (Diesel purge), replaced fuel lines, cylinder compression across board was 305+-5,glow plugs replaced, new monark injectors (bench tested: 2300,2200,2200,2200,2150)checked timing chain and valve job (cam lobes looked good), and removed exhaust. Fuel is going to each injector. Car runs rough at idle and dies when placed into gear. In fact, while idling (high rev's motor sounds good)and I turn on air car stalls.