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I was replacing the striker on my sons '79 and the bolts that the striker attach to fell. I can't see it and only the top one fell.. he was able to grab the bottom one with a paperclip and alot of patience. Is there are way to access inside that channel? Or another solution?
Thanks for answering my last question and all the other info I have gotten through MercedesSource by way of instructions and guides. I have new rotors that I aquired and the part number indicates that they go to the front of my 1984 300D. My question is that the old rotors (probably the originals)are bolted to the front bearing hub as you have confirmed. These new aftermarket rotors have no threads in the hub mating surface to accept the 5 mounting bolts that hold the old ones on. What gives? I have looked at other replacement brands also and see no way of fastening them to the hub.
When removing a brake rotor, (disc), is it fastened to the hub with any clips or bolts or is it sandwiched between the wheel and hub then secured by the lug bolts? There is 25 years of dirt/rust holding it in place also so I didn't expect it to exactly fall off but I was wondering if there are any fasteners I should be aware of.
As always thanks for any info that is offered.
Great resource.......Mike G.
I had a bunch of work done about a month ago and this problem seemed to appear after that. The engine runs smooth in idle when it's in park, but when it's in gear it starts reving up and down. It's a real problem when trying to parallel park, the car moves in surges. If I put the pedal down it stabilizes.
The work was; rebuilt injectors (from MS), new fast glow plugs, new valve cover gasket, valve adjustment, replaced leaky o-rings on injector pump. . .
It seems to me to be in the injector pump, any thoughts?
Hi all. I purchased the injector pump rack dampner bolt from Mercedessource complete with instructions. The mention of an O-ring made me somewhat prepared for some kind of fluid to be leaking out as O-rings are usually sealing something off. I expected diesel fuel but oil leaked out of the hole. There was no mention in the instructions of any fluids leaking out of the hole when removing the old one but I had some oil leak out and was wondering if that was normal.
I have researched quite a bit and everyone seems to explain the purpose of this solenoid but not elaborate on it. I can't make a standing decision if it should be left on the car or removed. On two of our cars, we have it bypassed. We just have the alda running to the banjo bolt. How does this affect performance? If the overboost solenoid cuts fuel down to N/A amounts, will bypassing it cut the fuel permanently? What does this do?
I've got an 89 300 SE that is an absolute slug when it is cold, and won't start when it is hot. Fuel pressure is within spec,and the coolant sensor is within range. I'm thinking the fuel accumulator is bad.Any help would be appreciated.
Hello
I sold my fourth and most recent Mercedes (1981 240D) in March. Couldn't stay away long, and am planning on looking at a 1979 300SD this weekend. I've had four diesels, (1982 240D, 1985 300SD, 1985 300D, 1981 240D) all automatic, since 1996.
The seller tells me that the transmission "sticks in second". Sounds to me like it might be a modulator valve issue, but since I can't even find a parts listing anywhere for a modulator valve for that car, I'm now wondering if that car came equipped with one at all.
I own two wagons, an 82 and an 85. The 82 has rebuilt rear suspension in the form of new accumulators, shocks and leveling valve. The 85 has had the shocks replaced some time ago, but is now mushy and leaks down over a period of 12-24 hours. I'd like to perform a preventive maintenance inspection and performance test to determine the condition of the system and point to component failures. Where is a good place to start?
I got a 87' 300D about a year ago. It had been sitting for several years I didn't know what to expect as far as power was concerned. Changed all the filters, and used the mercedessource injector cleaning system. The car ran much better. But still very sluggish. I hooked up a gauge to check the boost pressure. Im using original mercedes diesel engine sevice manual. It says that under full load at about 3500 rpm's I should have between .85 -.95 bar of pressure. All my gauges read in psi. When I converted .85-.95 bar to psi I get 12.32 -13.77 psi. Is that correct? Do these turbo's put out that much pressure.
I'm only getting a max of 3.75 PSI which is normal for american car engines.
So can some one tell me if this is suposed to put out 12-13 PSi of boost?