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My w123 runs at normal temperatures in day to day driving about town and on the freeway. However, when driving up through the Sierras recently, the gauge climbed steadily to near the red. The temperature decreased on the decents.
Before I drive up to the mountains again in about a month how can I troubleshoot the problem?
I overhauled the turbo using the mercedessource kit.
Had the turbo and compressor balanced.
Need advice on turbo compressor nut torque techniques.
I used the kit recommendation:
Nut touch the compression wheel, turn CW about 90 degrees using supplied 3/8 wrench and stopped when I judged force to be adequate. Balance marks aligned.
Turbo whine is noticeable when cold engine. Much less so when operating engine temp.
I judge to be a nut torque issue.
I wanted to ask you guys about a specific problem I am having that has me concerned. A few weeks ago I replace the motor mounts, engine shocks and oil cooler hoses. I felt compelled to replace the motor mounts and engine shocks because engine shake caused the whole car to vibrate, especially when at a stop light. I then noticed that the circular pulley on the front of the engine was wobbling as it rotated. I have been reading Kent's material and I am beginning to suspect one of these things is going on:
1. Loose front crank bolt
2. The rack damper needs adjusting/replacing
I purchased this vehicle about 18 months ago with 153K. It is not a daily driver. When driven it is on trips of several hundred miles at 75 - 80 mph. I recently had the vacuum shutoff valve go bad at approximately 160K. I decided if I was going to replace the shut off valve I would do a complete glow plug replacement, replace injector nozzles then balance injectors and of course replace the return fuel lines. I purchased evrything threw Mercedes Source and the job has been straight forward.
Hi Kent
Suffered relay short circuit with smoke coming from under hood at left front shock pillar. Engine now turns over irregardless of key accuation requiring battery disconnect to stop starter. What should be my first step in identifying relay? Thank you.
Chris
My 1984 190D 2.2L sounds like it's missing on one cylinder, there is a chuffing sound coming from the tail pipe. There is also a knocking sound that is most easily heard when letting off the throttle.
I did a compression test and all four cylinders were between 420-440 psi which was encouraging. Then I ran two cans of diesel purge through but there was no change, even while the car was running on the diesel purge.
Does anybody know the difference between the 82 - 85 injection pump? I'm need to know what the extra module on the 85 is versus the 82 it has a 3 wire electrical connection to it as opposed to the 82 which does not have the module
symptoms include.... door locks dont work.... well sometimes i come out and some doors are locked and battery is dead.. (vacuum pump running?), air dont blow out rite vents, takes a long time for heat to blow hot even if engine is at oper temp.... minor delay in shutdown of engine.... i hooked up mityvac to ignition vacuum line and it slowly leakes down.... normal?
My battery keeps going dead and I keep finding the auxillary fan fuse burned out. The red on on the C position. Metal bar on the fuse is broken and pealed back. what's the deal with that