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It seems I am going one step forward one step backward. Modulator was replaced on tranny. Car still shifts on the positive side but much smoother. But in the process I lost the kick down. Also when I come to a stop there is a noticeable clunk with the final downshift to first.
I don't know where to start troubleshooting.
Oliver
I adjusted my valves for the first time a few weekends ago. Two exhaust and one intake needed adjustment. Engine runs better but it seems to ping more when it's cold. Is this normal and/or OK. I certain that I did the adjustment correctly. Thanks.
I/P timing seems to wonder when checking. Car ran fine but in the quest to make sure my timing is set to 24 BTDC I noticed that it was moving around. I thought timing chain stretch so bought the kit, installed and I/P timing still moves from between BTDC to ATDC. I'm not able to get it even close to the correct timing spot. Help!!
MPG
Finally got a chance to make an extended highway trip on my new (for me) '83 300D. This is a one-owner car with a verified 116k miles. Drove 323 miles on I-75 on cruise control for 80% of the time at 2800 rpm for an indicated 65 mph. I drove about 30 miles on city streets and the rest on cruise control at 3,000 rpm. My mpg was 24.33. The mpg seems low. EPA says 30. I wonder if new injectors are called for? Or should I look elsewhere?
Oliver
I successfully adjusted the valves on my 1975 300D using the kit from MercedesSource (awesome wrenches by the way). Only 2 exhaust and 1 intake needed to be adjusted but engine does run smoother. In addition, my transmission is shifting much smoother, almost too smooth, almost like it is slipping but not quite.
Should this be a concern I don't want to pre-maturely wear out my transmission.
In the midst of the 100,000 mile rebuild kit, and can't get the center beraing loose on the turbo. How in the h e double hockey sticks does that thing shake loose? Everything else has gone without a hitch so far. I'm deathly afraid of busting something banging on it. Help?
Thanks!
ps turbo is off the car due to the head gasket R&R. Figured since I had it open might as well rebuild the turbo and the starter...
Ben near Detroit
Just bought a one-owner '83 300D with 116k verified miles. Service book was regularly stamped. Car starts instantly, idles perfectly runs great. Has 2.5 bar oil pressure at idle. But it has a definite knock. Took it to the local independent MB repair facility. Diesel mechanic has three 300D's himself. I used my infrared remote thermometer and showed him that the injector body of #1 cylinder was showing just 120-degrees. Other four 170-175.
Injector was removed and replaced. Good compression--in the 300's. Haven't had chance to recheck temp. Knock is still there.
Now I am told it is most likely a rod knock! I don't have the money to start rebuilding the bottom end of this engine. Plus I am surprised that a rod bearing would go with this low mileage.
I have a 94 S350D with the 603.xxx engine. Is there a injection pump timing procedure for these models? I have a lot of the symptoms you describe for the older models.
P.S. Just rebuilt my injectors with your kit. It went flawlessly. Your kit and instructions were fantastic.
Jay
I have an idle problem that will rise and then drop to a lower RPM when cold. After the engine warms up, the problem is gone. What could be the most likely cause?
What's a good process to remove diesel fuel and oil from the engine and engine parts including rubber parts like rubber mounts.