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I have replaced all filters, including the one in the tank and all looked clean. I am still experiencing loss of power and then stalling as if a filter is clogged. When pumping the manual pump attached to the injection pump, it does not have pressure. It's like there is an airlock, but engine will start. I also checked the tank and it is vented. Any ideas? Thanks.
I need to replace the gasket behind the water-pump housing on my 1980 300D. According to the service manual I first need to
1) remove radiator and fan
2) remove all v-belts
3) remove pulley
4) remove vibration damper
It looks like the bolts holding the pulley on are all that is holding the vibration damper on. Is that correct?
perhaps I should go a little further and swap out the front seal while I'm in there?
thanks!!
-nigel
Hi - When changing Injectors, I found low compression in the #2 Cylinders (160). All the others were ok (360 - 380). Is there anything I should do now, to prevent immediate complete failure? What should I expect in the near and far future, besides increasing loss of power? Thanks - John
Last weekend I installed a remanufactured starter motor. The engine turned over fine at first, but on roughly the 6th start-up I heard a loud spinning sound coming from the starter motor that didn't stop once the engine was idling. Also, it didn't stop when I killed the motor and took my key out of the ignition. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. After waiting a few minutes, I reconnected the battery, and started the car successfully on 5 or 6 occasions after that. Now my car won't start at all.
I have an approximate 45 minute commute to work. At about 30 minutes into the commute I detect a little surging at highway speeds. This has occured over the past few days. Temperatures are in the low 40s. Yesterday, I experienced severe loss of power limiting my highway speeds to 35 MPH. At lunch time drove to dealer with no problem (15 minute ride) with no loss of power (90 MPH). Dealer ordered a fuel filter. On my way home I experienced severe loss of power (worse than the morning commute)to the point of having to stay off the highway.
In the midst of installing the > $600 worth of stuff I bought off the site :-) and am curious about your take on cam. The '79 300SD had the lowest HP of the 617 turbo run and 85's the highest. Folks on some of the chat boards are suggesting I put an 85 cam and cam tower on the head once I get it back from the shop. Thoughts? that and know where a guy might get a good '85 cam/towers?
Thanks!
Ben near Detroit
I'm doing an engine swap from a 84 300D Calif. to a 83 300D Calif.
It appears that the 84 has the tach sensor on the injector pump where the 83 has it on the TDC transmitter. Will the tach work properly when I change the engine?
I test drove 1984 300D with 240K miles showing. She cranked and idled for approx 15 minutes. The dealer alerted me of sluggish acceleration. This was an under statement. I got her on the road and she barely made second gear, so I floored it, engine rev'd higher, pedal to the metal produced maxed speed of 45MPH. Easying off the gas seemed to help shift gear. I ran out of road, brought her back and same thing. asked dealer if he had any ideal what was causing the problem? He says... Fuel filter or maybe the turbo is going/gone bad. Question...
The cruise control on my 85 300TD used to work intemittently, but has not worked at all for a few months. What are the common problems which cause it not to work?
I'm having a heck of a time breaking loose the two bolts that hold the starter to the engine block (i.e., the two bolts that require an Allen wrench). They're in a very awkward place (especially the top one), and I don't have enough clearance to use a cheater bar. Any recommendations on how I can get them out?
Thanks!
Collin