82 300 TD-Instrument lights stay on
I am going crazy trying to figure out why the charge indicator, parking brake and brake wear lights on the dash are staying on? The engine runs fine. I searched the forums to no avail! Please help!! :(
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I am going crazy trying to figure out why the charge indicator, parking brake and brake wear lights on the dash are staying on? The engine runs fine. I searched the forums to no avail! Please help!! :(
Have a blown radiator which I pulled- How do I do an engine compression check to rule out cracked head or blown head gasket w/o the rad in place? Doesn't make sense to reinstall the radiator (-it's blown) or install a new rad just to test. Any ideas will be welcome as none of the mechanics down here seem to have any clue...
I recently purchased this 83, 123 chassis Turbodiesel about 3 months ago. It has 160K miles and has been very well maintained. I recently replaced the injectors, glow plugs, adjusted the valves twice, with three weeks between adjustments, and the compression currently checks out at 340,380,380,380,380. I got quite a bit of benefit from doing a diesel purge, banjo cleanout, and ALDA adjustment. All of my efforts are aimed at bringing this car as close to optimal operations as possible.
I am considering changing my 85 wagon from sls to spring and shock. What springs and shocks do I need to order? Are there any other recommendations you might have ? Thank you.
Driving down the interstate on my way to a gig (I'm a musician)- First noted the BATT light come on-Which I assumed correctly to be a shot belt- but also noted the engine was overheating.This is a new (3yrs old) OEM BEHR radiator I installed) Pulled over-antifreeze all over, radiator cap intact,but the top of the radiator was tilted about 20 degrees from horizontal, tilting up at the engine side, exposing the rubber tubular gasket around the top, and the metal mesh underneath. Obviously bent up somehow and in doing so disconnected the plastic housing.
Making my question simpler. I am removing the engine plug to install the block heater. I am using a 19mm 1/2 inch drive Allen an extension and a 20 inch breaker bar. I have put some torque on it and it does not budge. I do not want to break anything. How much torque is safe? Any suggestions?
Thank you
I am having problems with my Injection Pump Shutoff Valve...when I first start the car up the Valve is in the upright position..when I shut the car off it stops down and shuts the engine off. Then when I come back to restart the car a few minutes later..and turn the key to start..the engine turns over but will not start because the Shutoff Valve is down, but when I immediately turn the key off then back on, it comes up and starts the car immediately.
I dropped my car off at an auto body shop for a minor repair.
When I picked up the car I noticed the knob that adjusts the clock was mysteriously broken off. I found the knob, but it does not look like it can be glued back on.
Do I have to replace the entire cluster? Can the knob be replaced from behind the cluster?
G