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recently i was having problems with heat coming on when ac should have,mostly heat.ac works well.changed monovalve from mercedessource though old one was good,no change.got a used solenoid from mercedessource and then i only got cold,minimal heat.unplugged monovalve still cold even in defrost.whats the next step.aux pump??
i have a 1983 Mercedes 300td. my problem lies between hood and the bracket under hood. they have come apart. it is part of the hood its self. it is stamped sheet metal part that is suppose to be solidly attached. it looks like it is suppost to be a stiffening bracket what would be a good adhesive to get it to be glued solidly so it stops rattling and is firmly attached?
I recently did the conversion to WVO with the mercedessource kit and things were going well. As I started adding more WVO to the tank and got up to around 90% WVO and 10% Diesel I noticed the engine starting to hestitate after running it for 10-25 minutes. It began by hesitating at 75 on the freeway, every five minutes it would get worse and worse until finally I could only get the car up to 25. The filters looked fine so I tried adding 5 gallons of diesel fuel and the problem started to go away as the diesel got mixed in, acceleration came back.
Car came with badly damaged trunk lock - vacuum system not working so previous owner bashed open the lock with a hammer and screwdriver!?! Anyway, anyone know where I can get a replacement lock with a key before I start searching salvage yards?
This seems to be an overly common problem on the 123 chassis, yet I can't seem to find anyone else talking about it.
The interior color-coded plastic surrounds for the doors and hatch are all warped and buckled. Seems like every 123 I've seen that wasn't always garage kept has this problem.
My question is, what do most folks do about it? Rip it all off and leave the painted metal showing?
Hi,
My diesel is noisy at highway speed and hard acceleration. It sounds like a bad bearing somewhere. Maybe the turbo since it is linked to acceleration. How would you diagnose? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I have a 1985 300d. The torsion bar end broke off at the control arm. It is a massive job to replace the whole thing, but I understand there is an end piece with bushings that can be welded on. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks
I just bought a new heater motor because my old one would blow the fuse contuinually. Sometimes instantly, or sometimes after 20 minutes. I took it to an electric motor shop and he pointed out how it was bad- the bearing were shot, which I wasn't suprised because it had been squealing awfully since I owned the car. However, after installing the new heater motor on monday, I went out today to find that the fuse was blown. What could be causing this? It's blowing the #8 fuse (16amp) and the White AC Crossover Idle stabilization one. Is the aux pump on this?