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I have narrowed the cause of my non-functioning cruise control to the actuator.
I've read that they can be repairable. But I can't find the specifics about it.
It seems the potentiometer part of it isn't working, so to my mind it sounds like posibly a good cleaning maybe will do the trick. I don't know.
I haven't taken it off the car yet.
Thanks in advance.
mike
I found the changeover from a/c to heat problem in my 76 300D was the vacuum switch was not working so I reversed the vacuum lines on the vacuum motor and it switched from a/c to heat. (not really a repair but a quick way to get heat in a cold car) This worked fine for about 3 weeks. Then the blower motor fuse blew. I replaced it with the correct 8 amp fuse and it worked another week. After the replacement fuse blew I put in a 16 amp fuse. (not smart, but I was cold) The blower seemed to work fine, but quit a few hours later.
So, I had to replace my front brake calipers on my '82 300 TD because they had rusted. After putting on new rubber brake hoses and new front brake calipers I of course bled the brakes. However, I got in the car and pumped the brakes last night and noticed that the brake pedal and after a few seconds the pedal would fall to the floor. Do you think that there could be some air still trapped in the brake line somewhere, or is there something else that I should check.
I have an'81 240D that is my daily driver from Marysville to Boeing Field. While she has 295T the car has always received very good care by mechanically adept owners (I am the second owner) and runs beautifully.
Except- when it rains quite a bit after a few miles the brakes will act as if the pedal is “hard” or fading and it takes longer for the car to stop. If I hold my foot (medium to light pressure) on the brake for a few moments, there is a barely perceptible pull to the right-then the brakes return to their normal good stopping ability.
The problem may not occur again-not even if I go through a mud puddle. This only occurs when it rains and we’re talking a steady rain! It never occurs with dry pavement or simply moist pavement (fog, misting etc.).
well i'm almost at my wits end with this thing - certainly at my wallets end. Can anyone tip me toward an easy way to get the hood up after the brilliantly designed plastic latch that you pull between the grill breaks? I'm sure i can spend half the day coming up with something but if there are any quick ideas out there i'd love to hear them. Thanks in advance.
I've had my 300TD for two years now. Between my initial pre-purchase test drive and picking up the new car, the battery went dead and wouldn't take a charge. The original owner put in a new Mercedes Benz battery. A year later, that battery went dead and wouldn't take a charge. I bought an Autozone 49-DL battery (same size and amp/hours as original). A year later, it is dead and won't take a charge. I've been trying to charge it with the battery disconnected from the car and it charges endlessly. Any idea what causes this or where to start troubleshooting?
I think my neutral saftey switch may be going bad, as the starter is having trouble engaging at times. Can you tell me where it is located and is there a way to test it? Thanks. DJ
I was trying to do the simple task of replacing the front brake pads on my '82 300 TD wagon. I was able easily able to get one of the pads out, but the other one, the one closest to the car, I was unable to get out. When I would try to push the current brake pad back into the caliper to make room for the new thicker pad, it seemed like the pad was frozen in place. It would not budge. I tried tapping on it with a hammer, blasting it with dynamite and it would not move. Is there something that I am missing, or does this mean I probably need to get a new set of front calipers?
I have 1991 190e
Dos anyone experience removing the transmission out of the car?, seems like the bolts on top are really hard to reach.
I did remove the tranmission mounts in the rear and the transmission does tilt but still unable to reach the bolts on top.
Any help would be appricated!!
Short of a re-paint, is there anything that can be done about peeling clear coat? I understand that older 123's had clear coat applied over the paint at the factory. I understand that current paint practice is to mix clear coat with the paint color which supposedly eliminates the peeling problem.
It would be nice if a ....rattle can...solution of clear coat could be applied. Does anyone have experience with this? Any other ideas as to how to fix this problem?