n/a123 1985 300D Turbow
Tested diesel shuoff valve as per instructions
Pumped up vacuum to 10, but was unable to shutoff engine and the vacuum dropped off rapidly. I did this three times with same results. Removed valve and inspected. It didn't appear to be leaking any oil.
Tested valve and it closed at 5 and held vacuum. Tested three times with same results. Pumped up to 10 and it held all night with no loss of vacuum.
I am putting the head back on my 1990 300 SE and I want to know in what order do the bolts get tightened down and to what torque pressure
My w123 runs at normal temperatures in day to day driving about town and on the freeway. However, when driving up through the Sierras recently, the gauge climbed steadily to near the red. The temperature decreased on the decents.
Before I drive up to the mountains again in about a month how can I troubleshoot the problem?
How does the little air vent, mounted top center dash, sample the interior cabin air temperature? What does the tube connect to? Does it draw air in by the means of pump or just passively? My heat just doesn't want to stay constant and I have replaced monovalve, thermostat, etc. Thanks for anything anyone has to offer.
Hi I replaced front wheel bearings and races as a set, used good quality parts. when trying to preload the bearings as stated in manual The nut tightened untill there was no more thread but the wheel still moved very freely. There did't seem to be any play. but it doesn't seem right. is there supposed to be a flat washer between the nut and outer bearing. There wasn't one but I remember seeing this on other cars
I overhauled the turbo using the mercedessource kit.
Had the turbo and compressor balanced.
Need advice on turbo compressor nut torque techniques.
I used the kit recommendation:
Nut touch the compression wheel, turn CW about 90 degrees using supplied 3/8 wrench and stopped when I judged force to be adequate. Balance marks aligned.
Turbo whine is noticeable when cold engine. Much less so when operating engine temp.
I judge to be a nut torque issue.
I want to change out the head gasket it is leaking a small amount of oil and coolant down on the exhaust and smoking. Is this something I cam do myself I have repair experience and plenty of tools.
I wanted to ask you guys about a specific problem I am having that has me concerned. A few weeks ago I replace the motor mounts, engine shocks and oil cooler hoses. I felt compelled to replace the motor mounts and engine shocks because engine shake caused the whole car to vibrate, especially when at a stop light. I then noticed that the circular pulley on the front of the engine was wobbling as it rotated. I have been reading Kent's material and I am beginning to suspect one of these things is going on:
1. Loose front crank bolt
2. The rack damper needs adjusting/replacing
Kent, this car has been plagued with the same problem as long as we have owned it. (about ten years) I have done new points and plugs several times and the car has run better but it still will go through occasional fits of dieing in the road and not restarting. It has remained dead for several days and begun running again weather I have done anything to it or not. It has dropped in its tracks within 24 hrs of a complete tune up and it has gone 20K without a hiccup.