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When replacing the front struts ( shock absorbers ) on a W201 W124 or some W129 chassis it is frustrating and time-consuming trying to remove and replace the big 22 mm top nut on the front struts ( shocks ).
Over the years Kent has used a number of different things to place on top his jack stands to prevent damage and for added security. He has even tried some of the commercially available jack stand plastic covers. Nothing has proven to work better than the special cut reinforced hose shown here.
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the REAR shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground on his W124 coupe using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the FRONT shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
All these 124 chassis cars are 20 years or older. That is when rubber parts start to fail regardless of mileage. If you want to restore the factory ride and handling Kent strongly recommends you replace the top rubber mounts when you replace the shocks.
Don't be afraid to own one of these splendid airmatic models and don't be afraid to take on some of the repairs yourself. This system is no where near as complicated as the air suspension on my 300SEL 6.3 and way easier and cheaper to repair.
If you are experiencing excessive steering play you might want to inspect your coupler. This new part comes with thread locker bolts and locking washers as shown.
This quick reference guide will help you locate the source of the most common problems found on 123 and 126 chassis front suspensions. Illustrated parts breakdowns will guide you to the parts needed to repair the problem.
This becomes something you should inspect on cars with over 80,000 if they have been driven on rough roads, and over 100,000 on airmatic cars that have mostly freeway mileage.
This videos covers in detail the removal and replacment of the specialty rear shocks on a 2004 E500. Replacing these shocks are slightly different from removing standard shocks due to the extra electrical connection to the computer.
Fits right or left side. New Bilstein front strut as shown. Please check your vin number before ordering.
To add our new front strut boot and stop buffer kit look below.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 chassis 1972 to 1985 only. Will not fit 560SL. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your front shocks with new Comfort / Touring rated Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
Fits all 114 and 115 cars 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all 114 and 115 Models 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 Chassis 560SL 1986 to 1989 ONLY. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM Comfort rated shocks. Sorry, no instructions available.
Fits 126 Chassis 1981 - 1991 EXCEPT 560SEL. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all models list below without Self Leveling Rear Suspension. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD.
This is a very common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience rapid and uneven tire wear..
Sold individually. Fits models 1968 to 1980 only. ** Some exceptions include ALL 380SL from 1981-1985****
This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience uneven and rapid tire wear.
Fits the Following: All 123 and 126 Chassis from 1977 to 1991 .
This 16 page PDF downloadable SLS manual was written specifically for 123 300TD wagon owners, but also applies to the models mentioned above, 300TDs from 1979-1985 and other chassis above up to 1990.
This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes. The steering idler arm bushings are made out of rubber and when they wear your steering will get sloppy and you may hear squeaking noises when you turn the steering wheel.
Kit contains right and left tie rod assemblies as shown. We have found if you discover one or more loose tie rod ball joints, it is always better to replace both rod assemblies at the same time. Entire assemblies are about the same price as two individual ball joints.
I know that many, including some coil-over sellers, recommend just leaving the original pump and hoses in place and plugging them where they attach to the four struts, but I can almost guarantee you will have problems in the future, either with a noisy failing pump, leaking hydraulics, or a possi
New left AND right side upper control arms. They will fit ALL W116 chassis from 1973 to 1980 ( except 6.9 ), and ALL W123 chassis sedans, coupes and wagons from 1977 to 1985.
In this 20-minute instructional video, Kent will show you the steps on how you can replace the "hidden bushing" in the rear control arm by yourself without having to take the control arm off the car.
When you need the torque, this will deliver.
This 3-part hour and 27-minute video series should answer most of your questions concerning completing a coil-over shock absorber conversion on your 2003 to 2006 SL500.
This is part 3 of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 27 minutes in length. The complete series is 1 hour and 27 minutes and was too long to upload as one video.
This is part one of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 18 minutes in length.
This is part two of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 41 minutes in length. The complete series is 1 hour and 27 minutes and was too long to upload as one video.
I call this the hidden and forgotten bushing. Why? Because you can not see it to inspect it, it hardly ever gets changed. When these bushings wear out you will feel "weird" movement in your rear end, especially going over rough ground.
They started using 18 mm hardware after 1996. Most wrench kits use to not even have an 18mm combination wrench - let alone a long one ( measures 11 inches long).
In this 13-minute instructional video Kent will walk you through the steps of installing a standard (non-ABC) fluid reservoir tank on a standard (non-ABC) power steering pump if you choose to remove the original tandem pump.
In this 7.5-minute video, Kent will share some tips on getting to the bolts and nuts, removing the old ABC pump, and fitting in a standard M113 power steering pump.
Specific to the 2003 to 2006 SL500 with the M113 V8 engine only. I know that many, including some coil-over sellers, recommend just leaving the original pump and hoses in place and plugging them where they attach to the four struts, but I can almost guarantee you will have problems in the future,
This is a great kit for your 350SL, 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, 380SL, and 560SL from 1972 to 1989.
This is a short addendum to the full instructions on resealing an SLS hydraulic pump. This will now be included with the reseal kit. Disregard the old method mentioned elsewhere
In this 6-minute instructional video Kent will show you how fully bleed the air out of the power steering system on an M112 or M113 engine so you can get rid of that annoying squeal when you turn the wheel. This happens after doing a flush or replacing a power steering pump.
This magnetic inline filter can give additional life to the power steering fluid on the M112 and M113 engines ( V6 and V8 from 1998 to 2006). The filter has 3/8 inch nipples and can accept a 3/8 inch hose ( size normally found in the return hoses on M112 and M113 engines.
2000 to 2006 chassis only mentioned in the title. If you have your own power steering fluid, live where we can not ship fluids to you, or do not want or have room to install the magnetic filter, this power steering service kit if for you.
In this 24-minute instructional video, Kent will walk you through removing your old fluid and reservoir tank on top of the power steering pump, installing the new tank, and flushing the system with new fluid. This is a service you can indeed do yourself in your garage.
Special purchase. Only four kits are available at this price. Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your W123 steering tight again. Be sure to get a front-end alignment after installing these parts. No instructions are included for this kit.
In this 24-minute detailed step-by-step video instruction, Kent will walk you through the process of how to successfully remove the old shocks and install new ones.