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When replacing the front struts ( shock absorbers ) on a W201 W124 or some W129 chassis it is frustrating and time-consuming trying to remove and replace the big 22 mm top nut on the front struts ( shocks ).
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the REAR shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground on his W124 coupe using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the FRONT shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
All these 124 chassis cars are 20 years or older. That is when rubber parts start to fail regardless of mileage. If you want to restore the factory ride and handling Kent strongly recommends you replace the top rubber mounts when you replace the shocks.
Don't be afraid to own one of these splendid airmatic models and don't be afraid to take on some of the repairs yourself. This system is no where near as complicated as the air suspension on my 300SEL 6.3 and way easier and cheaper to repair.
If you are experiencing excessive steering play you might want to inspect your coupler at the end of your steering wheel shaft. PLEASE NOTE: this part DOES NOT come with bolts. You will have to use the existing bolts from your old coupler.
This quick reference guide will help you locate the source of the most common problems found on 123 and 126 chassis front suspensions. Illustrated parts breakdowns will guide you to the parts needed to repair the problem.
This becomes something you should inspect on cars with over 80,000 if they have been driven on rough roads, and over 100,000 on airmatic cars that have mostly freeway mileage.
This videos covers in detail the removal and replacment of the specialty rear shocks on a 2004 E500. Replacing these shocks are slightly different from removing standard shocks due to the extra electrical connection to the computer.
Fits right or left side. New Bilstein front strut as shown. Please check your vin number before ordering.
To add our new front strut boot and stop buffer kit look below.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all 114 and 115 Models 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 chassis 1972 to 1985 only. Will not fit 560SL. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your front shocks with new Comfort / Touring rated Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
Fits all 114 and 115 cars 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 Chassis 560SL 1986 to 1989 ONLY. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM Comfort rated shocks. Sorry, no instructions available.
Fits 126 Chassis 1981 - 1991 EXCEPT 560SEL. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all models list below without Self Leveling Rear Suspension. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD.
This is a very common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience rapid and uneven tire wear..
Sold individually. Fits models 1968 to 1980 only. ** Some exceptions include ALL 380SL from 1981-1985****
This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience uneven and rapid tire wear.
Fits the Following: All 123 and 126 Chassis from 1977 to 1991 .
This 16 page PDF downloadable SLS manual was written specifically for 123 300TD wagon owners, but also applies to the models mentioned above, 300TDs from 1979-1985 and other chassis above up to 1990.
This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes. The steering idler arm bushings are made out of rubber and when they wear your steering will get sloppy and you may hear squeaking noises when you turn the steering wheel.
Kit contains right and left tie rod assemblies as shown. We have found if you discover one or more loose tie rod ball joints, it is always better to replace both rod assemblies at the same time. Entire assemblies are about the same price as two individual ball joints.
In this 25-minute instructional video, Kent will show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing on a 2007 to 2012 GL 350, GL 450, and GL 550, without removing the steering knuckle from the car. It is not easy, but doable if you have the right tools.
Kent's full 25-minute video instructions are included at no extra cost. Watch the YouTude video below to understand these tools and why Kent is offering them for sale.
You must purchase a bearing sleeve puller KIT like the one shown above. These are readily available on Amazon.
Very hard to find in good condition. This came off an 85 wagon with a trap oxidizer, air filter mounted off the engine behind the right headlight, and fluid tank for the SLS mounted on the left side of the engine compartment. The hoses are longer than the standard 1981 to 1984 turbo wagons.
Actual parts shown. See details below.
In this xx-minute instructional video, Kent will explain and demonstrate how to change and deal with the end fittings on the high pressure lines used on the Mercedes airmatic suspension from 2000 to 2013. Examples shown are filmed on a W220 S500.
I have heard so many stories of owners throwing parts at leaks in their airmatic suspension only to discover it does not fix the problem that I decided to develop this pressure tester. My motto is to test first - then buy parts.
BIG punch. Must have for the DIY mechanic. Good for driving and good for aligning holes.
Very handle for alighning shocks and other suspension parts during assembly.
On 2000 to 2013 S Class sedans with airmatic suspension, getting to the top fitting on the rear strut under the panel below the rear glass can be a real pain. It is so tight in there you can hardly see what you are doing.
These instructions are specific to the axle boot replacement kit we sell but can also be "generic" in application to most models with rubber axle boots. They come as a PDF in a 2-up format.
In this 15-minute instructional video, Kent will demonstrate the use of his unique bushing press tool on a W221 S550. He calls this the "hidden bushing" as you can not see it, and it is tough to inspect its condition without dropping the control arm.
Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your 1972 to 1985 R107 steering tight again. That includes the 350SL,450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC and 380SL. Be sure to get a front-end alignment after installing these parts.
Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your 1981 to 1991 W126 steering tight again.
Tool configuration when pushing out the old bushing.
If you have a W126 they all need this if it has not been done in the last 15 years.
This kit includes the following parts:
These are very common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience rapid and uneven tire wear..
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will show you a trick that few know about. You can get those tapered shaft ball joints ( like to find on tie rods and control rods) loose without damaging the rubber boot. It can be faster and less painful than using traditional methods.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will share a few tips that will aid you when installing new front subframe mounts in the 1972 to 1989 R107 and the 1968 to 1976 W115 and W114. These are in addition to the PDF instructions he has written. ( see below).
Know your chassis #! These will NOT fit the W204 chassis C class. ONLY the best for your W203 C-Class! This is a set of new Bilstein shock absorbers with hardware as shown.
This is one of the most often neglected services I see on the M272 engine. Even at 100,000 miles, you often see the tank has never been changed, and you can recognize that by looking to see if there is a factory crimp hose clamp still in place on the fluid return hose at the bottom of the tank.
This kit includes four end fittings that attach the lines to the struts and the valve block, 1 meter of 4mm high-pressure line, and two splice connectors if you have to replace a broken or cracked plastic high-pressure line. These are "push-on to lock" in place. Very easy to install.
I decided to make this tester due to the number of reports of people wasting money and time trying to find the leak in their airmatic suspension. in some cases shops would just throw parts at it and the customer had to take it in two or three times before getting it permanently fixed.