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When replacing the front struts ( shock absorbers ) on a W201 W124 or some W129 chassis it is frustrating and time-consuming trying to remove and replace the big 22 mm top nut on the front struts ( shocks ).
Over the years Kent has used a number of different things to place on top his jack stands to prevent damage and for added security. He has even tried some of the commercially available jack stand plastic covers. Nothing has proven to work better than the special cut reinforced hose shown here.
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the REAR shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground on his W124 coupe using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
In this video Kent will demonstrate how to replace the FRONT shocks in the chassis mentioned above. He will do this on the ground using a floor jack, jack stands, and hand tools.
All these 124 chassis cars are 20 years or older. That is when rubber parts start to fail regardless of mileage. If you want to restore the factory ride and handling Kent strongly recommends you replace the top rubber mounts when you replace the shocks.
Don't be afraid to own one of these splendid airmatic models and don't be afraid to take on some of the repairs yourself. This system is no where near as complicated as the air suspension on my 300SEL 6.3 and way easier and cheaper to repair.
If you are experiencing excessive steering play you might want to inspect your coupler at the end of your steering wheel shaft. PLEASE NOTE: this part DOES NOT come with bolts. You will have to use the existing bolts from your old coupler.
This quick reference guide will help you locate the source of the most common problems found on 123 and 126 chassis front suspensions. Illustrated parts breakdowns will guide you to the parts needed to repair the problem.
This becomes something you should inspect on cars with over 80,000 if they have been driven on rough roads, and over 100,000 on airmatic cars that have mostly freeway mileage.
This videos covers in detail the removal and replacment of the specialty rear shocks on a 2004 E500. Replacing these shocks are slightly different from removing standard shocks due to the extra electrical connection to the computer.
Fits right or left side. New Bilstein front strut as shown. Please check your vin number before ordering.
To add our new front strut boot and stop buffer kit look below.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all 114 and 115 Models 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 chassis 1972 to 1985 only. Will not fit 560SL. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your front shocks with new Comfort / Touring rated Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
Fits all 114 and 115 cars 1968-1976. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits 107 Chassis 560SL 1986 to 1989 ONLY. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM Comfort rated shocks. Sorry, no instructions available.
Fits 126 Chassis 1981 - 1991 EXCEPT 560SEL. The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
The best way to restore the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well. These are OEM COMFORT shocks that give you the smoothest ride.
Fits all models list below without Self Leveling Rear Suspension. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins.
Fits all 107 Chassis Mercedes 1972-1989. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins. There is no other shock that will perform as well.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD.
This is a very common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience rapid and uneven tire wear..
Sold individually. Fits models 1968 to 1980 only. ** Some exceptions include ALL 380SL from 1981-1985****
This is a common wear item on high mileage 126 chassis. It will start out as a clunking noise when you go over rough ground. When real bad it will be hard to get your car to track right down the road (it will want to wander) and you will experience uneven and rapid tire wear.
Fits the Following: All 123 and 126 Chassis from 1977 to 1991 .
This 16 page PDF downloadable SLS manual was written specifically for 123 300TD wagon owners, but also applies to the models mentioned above, 300TDs from 1979-1985 and other chassis above up to 1990.
This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes. The steering idler arm bushings are made out of rubber and when they wear your steering will get sloppy and you may hear squeaking noises when you turn the steering wheel.
Kit contains right and left tie rod assemblies as shown. We have found if you discover one or more loose tie rod ball joints, it is always better to replace both rod assemblies at the same time. Entire assemblies are about the same price as two individual ball joints.
Only one available. Please do not try to order more.
These are becoming harder to find in good condition. They were often used as the spare tires in these older models.
Off low mileage coupe and in dry storage for the past 25 years. Excellent condition as shown.
These require removal of the batter and possibly the brake booster to replace. They are split so you do not need to remove the sway bar. Plan to replace if doing work under the battery box area. Battery acid is hard on the right side.
PLEASE NOTE: We do not sell the coil-over shocks. These can be purchased from numerous sources online. Kent used the shocks from Hiro Performance. You can use google to find these sources.
These are the rubber parts that often do not get replaced when working on an R107 front end to fix loose steering, squeaking noises, and erratic handling. These fit all 107s from 1972 to 1989.
Flushes Out Old Grease and Repacks Bearings with Less Mess. This Handy Packer works on bearings up to 3 1/2" O.D.
Almost every early SL Kent comes across needs new front wheel bearings. These get so neglected and hardly ever replaced. We are offering a very high quality kit as shown above that will include free grease for your new wheel bearings.
SAVE BIG! These critical front suspension parts will restore the factory road feel on your old 123. Watch the video as Kent will explain what they are, where they do, and what is involved in replacing them.
This kit contains the following new parts:
This high pressure hose is a common leak area on the 126 gasoline V8 models. If you see oil drips just aft of your power steering pump it is probably this hose.
I know that many, including some coil-over sellers, recommend just leaving the original pump and hoses in place and plugging them where they attach to the four struts, but I can almost guarantee you will have problems in the future, either with a noisy failing pump, leaking hydraulics, or a possi
New left AND right side upper control arms. They will fit ALL W116 chassis from 1973 to 1980 ( except 6.9 ), and ALL W123 chassis sedans, coupes and wagons from 1977 to 1985.
In this 20-minute instructional video, Kent will show you the steps on how you can replace the "hidden bushing" in the rear control arm by yourself without having to take the control arm off the car.
When you need the torque, this will deliver.
This 3-part hour and 27-minute video series should answer most of your questions concerning completing a coil-over shock absorber conversion on your 2003 to 2006 SL500.
This is part 3 of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 27 minutes in length. The complete series is 1 hour and 27 minutes and was too long to upload as one video.
This is part one of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 18 minutes in length.
This is part two of a three-part series on converting your 2003 to 2006 SL500 to coil-over shock absorbers. It is 41 minutes in length. The complete series is 1 hour and 27 minutes and was too long to upload as one video.
I call this the hidden and forgotten bushing. Why? Because you can not see it to inspect it, it hardly ever gets changed. When these bushings wear out you will feel "weird" movement in your rear end, especially going over rough ground.
They started using 18 mm hardware after 1996. Most wrench kits use to not even have an 18mm combination wrench - let alone a long one ( measures 11 inches long).