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Hi Kent,
I have a slow and annoying oil drip originating at the base of my oil cooler. I suspect the hose connector(s) and/or oil cooler thread fittings.
I've been searching for a replacement cooler and hoses, but everything I've found (including items in your store) show an oil cooler with connections at the top and bottom.
For some reason, the existing hoses and cooler in my car have both input and output connections at the bottom of the oil cooler.
Through a local dealership I purchased a red modulator for my vehicle.
When I removed the old one I saw that it had a dowl attached to it. I attempted to remove it, but it seems to be part of the modulator. The new one does not have this. Is it a design change, or do I need another part.
Hi All,
I purchased by 1983 300 TD in November 2009 so this is my first summer with Frau Blucher as we have named her. The AC worked well as it started getting warmer. We have had a nice hot summer in Atlanta and I'm getting some interesting behavior from the AC.
On the hottest days when you start out, the air blows cold and the car is comfortable. As long as you are driving it is fine. When you stop to go into a store or something, very often when you start back you get an intense blast of heat out of the vents for at least 3-5 minutes. Sometimes the cool kicks back in and other times it doesn't. It is not just lukewarm air but feels like it is actually heated.
Hi Kent et al.,
I have a 1982 240D with manual transmission. Lately I've been having intermittent starter trouble. I've followed the 'Why Wont My Mercedes Engine Crank Over' guide.
My battery is in good condition and reads 12.4VDC, and I'm confident the charging system is working correctly.
When I jumper the solenoid I get the same behavior as turning the key. Here's what happens:
The solenoid seems to be working properly, and sends current to the starter. The starter spins, but fails to fully engage. I hear a rattling/grinding sound, which sounds like the gears failing to mesh, and instead chattering against each other.
Just replaced and tryed adjusting rear brake shoe assembly with new rotors...Now, the car does not back up or feels like it is rolling up onto something. Not sure if I adjusted the star gear properly. I know there is a balance, but this is getting frustrating. The E-Brake pedal inside the car does not get enough resistant/stiff when pedal is pushed down. It releases fine/quick.
I recently changed the fluid and filter for the automatic transmission in my 1980 300D. I'm not sure how many versions of the fluid pan Mercedes made, but mine has a drain plug that screws in to the pan through the filler line. The plug has opennings in it that allow the fluid to pass through to fill the pan. I cleaned everything well and replaced the aluminum washers with new copper ones, so I was surprised to find it leaking. I was thinking about putting a thin layer of RTV on the washers to improve the seal, but was wondering if there are any other fixes I could try first.
so...just replaced my radiator, all hoses and the thermostat (all mercedes source parts)...putting the hoses back on and when i go to the this hose that goes from the top left of the radiator to the top of the coolant reservoir, as i was tightening the clamp, the plastic nipple of the radiator snapped off...do i need to buy a new new radiator now, or can it be epoxied and still used???...any recommendations on the specific glue to use???...
really bummed at my mistake, came down to a lack of presence in the final moments...thanks for your support!