Good used set of working front 123 shocks as shown. These were only on the car for about 3 years (15 to 20 K miles). You can see from the picture how they look now. Tested in our shop. They still have lots of life left for a smooth ride.
This quick reference guide will help you locate the source of the most common problems found on 123 and 126 chassis front suspensions. Illustrated parts breakdowns will guide you to the parts needed to repair the problem.
ONLY ONE AVAILABLE. Wheel only NO TIRE. These wheels were unique to the last couple of years of the US model 240D. They will of course, fit all 123 chassis as well as the older 114 and 115. They make for great spare tires as they are so light. These are rare and getting harder to find.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD. The best way to upgrade the original ride and feel of your Mercedes is to replace your shocks with new HEAVY DUTY Bilsteins.
FITS THE FOLLOWING all 123 chassis from 1977-1985 which include the 230, 240D, 240TD, 280E, 280CE, 300D, 300CD and 300TD.
Fits the Following: All 123 and 126 Chassis from 1977 to 1991 .
This 16 page PDF downloadable SLS manual was written specifically for 123 300TD wagon owners, but also applies to the models mentioned above, 300TDs from 1979-1985 and other chassis above up to 1990.
This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes. The steering idler arm bushings are made out of rubber and when they wear your steering will get sloppy and you may hear squeaking noises when you turn the steering wheel.
Kit contains right and left tie rod assemblies as shown. We have found if you discover one or more loose tie rod ball joints, it is always better to replace both rod assemblies at the same time. Entire assemblies are about the same price as two individual ball joints.
Fits all 123 modesl 1977 to 1985
Fits W123 sedans and coupes, 1977 to 1985. Good working REAR shocks as shown with rubber bushings, washers, and nuts included. NOT for wagons. Shock absorber.
Good working front shocks as shown with rubber bushings, washers, and nuts included.
VERY CLEAN rust-free set of rear springs removed from 300TD wagon. The car was sitting at the correct ride height. These appear to have been replacements in the not-too-distant past.
PLEASE do not try to check out online. If you are interested in coming to pick these up email us sales@mercedessource.com. Watch the video below for a full description. BUSTER
These instructions are specific to the axle boot replacement kit we sell but can also be "generic" in application to most models with rubber axle boots. They come as a PDF in a 2-up format.
In this short 3-minute video, Kent will show you a trick that few know about. You can get those tapered shaft ball joints ( like to find on tie rods and control rods) loose without damaging the rubber boot. It can be faster and less painful than using traditional methods.
You must inspect the sway bar, especially if the car has been subjected to road salt. Kent will explain in more detail in the video below.
Forget about this bolt rusting again on your sway bar. Included are 2 correct bolts and blue thread locker to secure them in place.
Do you want the rear end to ride like a new W123? Then you have to replace the key suspension rubber parts that attach the rear suspension to the car. This kit has the parts you need, but it does not include instructions.
These are the forward trailing arm bushings that connect the arms to the rear subframe. When these bushing get old or start to crack and break apart, you may hear noises in the back and the rear end may want to steer the car on its own.
These require removal of the batter and possibly the brake booster to replace. They are split so you do not need to remove the sway bar. Plan to replace if doing work under the battery box area. Battery acid is hard on the right side.
Flushes Out Old Grease and Repacks Bearings with Less Mess. This Handy Packer works on bearings up to 3 1/2" O.D.
SAVE BIG! These critical front suspension parts will restore the factory road feel on your old 123. Watch the video as Kent will explain what they are, where they do, and what is involved in replacing them.
New left AND right side upper control arms. They will fit ALL W116 chassis from 1973 to 1980 ( except 6.9 ), and ALL W123 chassis sedans, coupes and wagons from 1977 to 1985.
This is a short addendum to the full instructions on resealing an SLS hydraulic pump. This will now be included with the reseal kit. Disregard the old method mentioned elsewhere
Unless your steering box is all worn out, these are the parts you need to replace to get your 1977 to 1985 W123 steering tight again. Fits all model sedans, wagons, and coupes. Be sure to get a front-end alignment after installing these parts. Partial instructions included.
In this detailed 30-minute video Kent will walk you through the process of installing new tie rod ends on his 1959 Mercedes 220SE. The principles are the same on almost all models from the 1950s up to the 1990s. He will explain the differences in adjustment between the older and newer styles
Loose steering or wheels shaking at speed. This can often be worn out tie rod ball joints. The joints can be replaced as a DIY project. Watch the video below to see if this is something you want to take on yourself.
This kit includes:
Fits all Mercedes models with the 14" Alloy bundt cake style wheels. The measurements are M12x1.5mm by 51mm overall length. This is a set of five USED wheel bolts that are not all rusty. Recommend you clean. (Dawn dishwashing soap) And paint them silver before installation.
You can see from the picture this axle is hardly used. Estimated mileage between 20,000 to 25,000 miles. Only one is available like this. No clips spacers or end bolts included. Rubber boots are still in very good condition. Was running quiet when removed from an 83 300D.
In this video, Kent will show you how he fixed his leaking tires on his chrome alloy wheels by using Miracle Paint. This is a full 22-minute step-by-step instructional video. Watch the video "trailer" below to give you a better understanding of what is involved in this procedure.
Good used bracket as shown.
Kent will get right up behind the rear end hub plate and show you close up how to remove and replace a sway bar link. This is not a difficult job especially if you follow the sequence shown in this 7- minute video.
In this 30 minute-long video Kent will walk you through what he did for the rear suspension on his 1983 240D.
A brand new set of two grease caps as shown by Febi. Time to get rid of those ugly beat up and dented grease caps.
Good usable passenger side rear trailing arm. No rust through. This was removed from a 1983 W123 300D, so if you install it in another chassis, you will have to change the emergency brake cable. PLEASE NOTE.
This one is excellent. The bearings are very smooth, fully breased and the rear seal still intact. This is your best option if the lug bolt threads are damaged or stripped out. Good used condition.
Socket is now black (impact grade). This is a tool that Kent first thought about making 20 years ago. While installing shock absorbers in his 380SL he had finally had enough - so it was back to the machine shop to come up with a new tool.
This video will cover the use of my custom plastic tool to safely remove the steel center section for the outside aluminum housing with rebuilding your older style SLS ( Self Leveling Suspension) hydraulic pump. No other instructions included here.
In this video, Kent explains the correct procedure for cleaning and lubricating your hubs and rear brake rotor BEFORE you install your wheels. He hardly ever sees this done when removing wheels on 15 plus-year-old Mercedes so he knows it is almost ALWAYS neglected.
PLEASE NOTE: These are not complete instructions on how to open up an early style SLS pump and properly reseal it. Rather, these are some tips that will make the job go faster and easier. These are things Kent has learned rebuilding a number of these pumps himself.
I do not need to say much about this tool. Well made and well thought out. Someone who obviously was frustrated at scratching the finish on his or her alloy wheels came up with this idea. Watch the video below to see why this is now my favorite go it 17 mm lug bolt socket.
This U.S.A. made 17 mm 8 inch long combination wrench is custom modified here in our shop to help you easily install Bilstein front and rear shocks on most of the older model Mercedes Benz.
In this video instruction, Kent will demonstrate how to check for one possible source of a mysterious front end clunking sound. Any clunking noise you hear when driving over rough ground or when braking should be investigated immediately.
This is the most thorough kit available anywhere in the world for opening up and resealing your early style (square ) SLS leveling valve. This was used on all W123 300TD wagons and a few other models during that same time period.
Why these special tools? Can't you just adjust that rod with a couple of combination open end wrenches. Maybe yes and no... have you tried it? You can not get the rod off with a regular thickness 10 mm open end wrench.
Kent will walk you through the steps to properly adjust the leveling according to factory specifications. He will also cover some of the problems you may run into and demonstrate how he used the new adjusting tools he designed.
In this long video manual Kent will walk you step-by-step through the process of removing the older square style leveling valve from your Mercedes, opening it up without losing the spring and balls, removing the old o-rings and cleaning the parts properly, installing the new o-rings, and putting
Trying to fix a rough or bouncy ride in your SLS Mercedes? Not sure what is causing the problem? Maybe you have heard that it might be the accumulators.
In this video Kent will walk you through the procedure of removing the old accumulators and installing new ones in a W123 300TD wagon. It is a very straightforward job that only takes a couple hours. You will need to raise the car and safely support it on jack stands.