Some of Kent's pristine Mercedes Collection on sale now. CLICK HERE to view all.
Kent believes this is the best protection you can give your rear end. Since there is no filter there for the fluid, nothing other than this super-strong magnetic drain plug can keep metal particles from working their way back up into the bearings and gears.
Removing the rear axles from the W201 chassis is not a difficult job provided everthing goes well. In fact, the procedure is considerably simplier than removing axles from the older swing arm rear ends of the 1970's and early 1980's.
New Axle seals to seal rear differential housing to rear axles. Please note that these only fit certain models and some are subject to a vin number split. If in doubt look at your current seals and measure the diameter.
FITS THE FOLLOWING All 116, 123 and 126 chassis diesel cars with 5 cyl. turbo engines. This includes 1982 to 1985 300D, 1982 to 1985 300CD, 1981 to 1985 300TD and 1978 to 1980 300SD / 1981 to 1985 300SD. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT MERCEDESSOURCE MAINTENANCE ALERT
FITS ALL 115 220D 240D 300D and 123 240D 300CD 300D 300TD with NON TURBO engines. THIS IS AN IMPORTANT MERCEDESSOURCE MAINTENANCE ALERT! In previous years I have had a number of Mercedes diesels come in to my shop with severe damage due to total drive line flex disk failure.
All 280SL 450SL 380SL 1972 to 1985. All 230SL 250SL 280SL. All 108 and 109 Sedan from 1965 to 1973 including 280SE/L 5.4 and 300SEL 3.5 and 4.5. All 114 and 115 sedans and coupes from 1968 to 1976 including 220D 240D and 300D. We are now offering a kit with 2 new tie rods.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: All Mercedes Chassis 111 113 108 109 107 114 115 116 123 126 from 1968 to 1991 (not applicable for 201 or 124 chassis). This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes.
New Drive shaft center support bearing. Fits all 240D, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 300SD 300SDL 300CE 300E 420SEL 380SE 280SL 450SL 560SL, gasoline and diesel models from 1968 to 1993. This bearing may need replacing on high mileage cars.
Does your rear end make funny noises while driving? Does the rear of your car sag in the back? Do you have excessive rear tire wear? Does the rear of your car feel like it is moving around? During heavy braking or rapid acceleration does your Mercedes want to steer right or left on its own!
Brand new rear Subframe mount kit made by Meyle, for 126 Chassis from 1986 to 1991, models listed above. No detailed instructions but here are some installation tips.
New Meyle heavy duty subframe mounts will eliminate rear-end wiggle and sway typical on these older chassis. No specific instructions are included but we do offer these tips for successful installation. A small tube of silicone grease and brush applicator are included at no extra charge.
Rear Subframe Mount Kit with rubber bushings for both sides complete with mounting hardware as shown. If your Mercedes rear-end is moving around, out of alignment, or sagging slightly, then your forward trailing arm attach point rubber mounts ( bushing )may be worn out or collapsed.
I have been discovering this is one of those maintenance areas that suffers from severe neglect. Failure of the rubber support or center drive shaft bearing can cause all types of improperly diagnosed vibration problems - some commonly change with vehicle speed.
Because it is so labor-intensive, this is a VERY expensive job if you have a shop do it. If you have the necessary tools and mechanical experience, you can likely save well over $ 1,000 by doing it yourself.
Consider replacing the hub if it is severely rusted due to road salt. You may not be able to get the new bearing to fit correctly. Also, the inside splines do wear if the GL is driven hard or run off-road regularly.
This is what you call a "big hongking" wheel bearing. It weighs close to 4 lbs! Replacement is a very expensive repair if you have a shop do it, but if you are an intermediate DIY mechanic, you CAN do it yourself with the steering knuckle on the vehicle, if you have the right tools.
When it is time to change the rear end fluid, why not get rid of your old rusty drain plug(s) and replace one or both with stainless steel plugs?
If you have one of our pressure brake bleeders, you can easily attach this wand to the end of the hose by removing the brake master cylinder reservoir cap. You can place the exact amount of fluid in the tank, hang the wand in the fill hole, lock the valve open, and walk away.
This is a critical replacement part. If it lets loose at high speed it can damage your transmission and drive line. Just replace if over 20 years old! Bolts not included. Plan to use your old ones.
If you have ever changed the fluid in a 4matic transfer case you will understand why Kent is so excited about his new custom pressure bottle.
This tank works amazing! Put in the heavy rear end or trans fluid. Pump up the pressure. Stick the non-fall-out end in to fill hole... and just push on the valve in the handle of the filling wand.
Have you dreaded changing the rear end fluid before because it is a pain and ends up being really "messy?" Kent finally decided there had to be a better way so he went to work and came up with the idea of using a simple and affordable custom made pressure tank to "flush" and refill differentials
Works on W114, W115, R107, W116, W123 and W126. A better performing and more comfortable 14mm hex wrench to use when changing the fluid in your rear end. Will work on manual transmission with 14mm drain plug only. Watch the video to see why.
These are the instructions that are included free with all of our Rear Subframe Mount Replacement kits. If you are interersted in seeing what this job entails, or you have the parts already, then these downloadable instructions are great.
This is not a normal nut. On the face it has a special hard plastic nylon seal. When this seal deteriorates you may see evidence of power steering fluid seeping out of the bottom the the adjustment locknut (located on the top of the steering box).
WARNING: IF YOU ORDER THE WRONG ONE IT IS NOT RETURNABLE.
If you need everything for your front hub bearing replacement then this is the best deal. This kit is for BOTH SIDES. Comes with inner and outer wheel bearings, seal, cap, AND ground clip. Fits models listed above only ( with ABS).
This important rubber coupler connects your steering column shaft to the steering box input shaft. Inspect yours for cracking now. Always replace when replacing steering gear box.
This is kit will only work on the ORIGINAL FACTORY AXLES THAT CAME ON THE SL AND BIG S CLASS CARS! Be sure to watch the video below to determine if this kit will work for you!
We recommend you always replace this seal when removing and replacing your rear axles. You will need two of these if you are working on both axles. Seal fits on either side of the rear differential that uses can style rear axles. They will fit rear ends with ONLY can-style axles.
New front INNER wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side on 116, 123 and 126 chassis, 240D 300D 300TD 300CD 300SD from 1977 to 1984. PLEASE NOTE: WILL NOT FIT MODELS WITH ABS.
New front outer wheel bearing with race for one side only. Fits right or left side on 116, 123 and 126 chassis, 240D 300D 300TD 300CD 300SD from 1977 to 1984. PLEASE NOTE: WILL NOT FIT MODELS WITH ABS.
This is a great kit for your 350SL, 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, 380SL, and 560SL from 1972 to 1989. It also fits all W114 and W115 Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. Brand new UPPER control arm inner bushing repair kit.
Brand new upper ball joint assembly with hardware. Fits all 114 115 Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1972 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Replacing the upper ball joint is not a do-it-yourself job.
This is a great kit for you 114 and 115 owners. Fits all Sedans and Couple both gas and diesel from 1968 to 1976. Also fit early SL and SLC convertibles and coupes - all 450SL, 450SLC, 380SLC, and 380SL from 1972 to 1985. Brand new set of 2 lower ball joints. This is not a do-it-yourself job.
The Mercedes Multi-Link rear end is a marvel of engineering and works extremely well, but when one or more of the link bushings wear out, your car will start steering on its own! In severe cases when applying rapid power it may act like it wants to change lanes on you.
Fits 126 300SD 1981 to 1985. If your drive shaft is vibrating or universal joints or coupling bolt holes worn out it is best best to just replace with a good used unit. This one was removed from a 300SD and the couplings, joints and bearing are in good condition.
Fits the following chassis: all 114 and 115 built from 1968 to 1976 and all 123 from 1977 to 1985.
Fits all 114 115 116 107 123 124 126 drivelines 1968 to 1993.
I have been discovering this is one of those maintenance areas that suffers from severe neglect. Failure of the rubber support or center drive shaft bearing can cause all types of improperly diagnosed vibration problems - some commonly change with vehicle speed.