
Engine Cosmetic Restoration "Tool" Kit
When cleaning and cosmetically restoring your cars engine and engine compartment, you will need containers for the various cleaners, acids, paints and sealants you might use as well as brushes to apply them.
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When cleaning and cosmetically restoring your cars engine and engine compartment, you will need containers for the various cleaners, acids, paints and sealants you might use as well as brushes to apply them.
Kent has been working a long time to find a way to stop the ugly corrosion on aluminum and magnesium engine parts. Particularly valve covers and intake manifolds. Help Kent out here to test this new product he has been using. The kit includes a 1 oz container of gel and a scotch brite pad.
When prepping many surfaces on your engine for replacement gaskets or application of RTV sealant it is very important not to scratch the metal. In some cases that can set up corrosion or possible small leaks that will lead to premature failure of the repair.
Kent uses these superb plastic razor blades regularly in his shop. Recently they proved very useful when resealing the magnesium engine breather covers on an M113 engine. There are seven green and three orange in this little package.
This is one of Kent's favorite tools around his shop. It is used almost daily. The tool rose out of a need to be able to safely hold fuel inectors while cleaning when with a large high speed wire wheel. No tool like this is availabe so it had to be built in our shop!
Keeping your throttle linkage ball sockets and pivot point lubricate extends the life of the parts and maintains top performance for the engine as well as some of the later transmissions.
When working on automotive engines a long heavy machinist straight edge is a must. This is the best way to tell if the mating surfaces are flat and true. That includes cylinder heads, engine blocks, intake and exhaust manifolds as well as critical sealing metal to metal covers and housings.
This resistor will prolong the life of our FAST pencil glow plugs in your old Mercedes 170D or 180D.
Fits 4 cylinder flat head diesel 636 engines built in the 1950's.
New German made Monark Fast heat glow plug designed to replace the series loop tip style glow plugs that were installed in all non-turbo diesel engines up to 1979. These have the large thread built in so they will install directly into the older heads.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
This is the best tool to use when removing throttle linkage ball socket ends on older Mercedes gas and diesel engines. If you try to "twist" them off you can damage the spring clip. It is much better to pry them off evenly.
It is not easy to find a good spray can paint! No spray can paint can match the performance of quality automotive paint mixed and sprayed properly from a spray gun, but as far as spray-can paint, this is the best Kent has found ( and he has used 100's of different ones over the years).
Brand new genuine pre-chambers as shown ( total of 4 ). Part number is 636-010-05-52. Do your research and make sure these are the correct prechambers for your engine.
If you have ever fought spark plugs before you will REALLY appreciate this special KD socket. This is the absolute BEST 13/16 inch spark plug socket that Kent has ever used. This one will not let you down and it is not so long that you can not get into tight places.
This is a collection of products and on demand videos Kent has put together to help you clean and detail the engine compartment like he did in his pristine 560SEC. The first video covers general cleaning of the engine safely without using a lot of water.
This is a very high quality finish 13mm combination wrench that is 8 inches long. How many times have you needed that extra reach or that extra torque! One of the most common sizes you will use on older Mercedes Benz.
Want to try to make your car's engine and engine compartment look like it just came off the showroom? Would you like detailed information on the chemicals, brushes, tools, and procedures Kent uses to get his engine compartments looking so nice?
Valve adjustment is often neglected on many of the mid 1950's to early 1970's 6 cylinder single overhead camshaft gas engines. If it has been years since any adjustment was made, there will be problems - Kent can guarantee it!!!
If your engine is just running hot, it may be due to a plugged radiator or possibly a stuck thermostat. If your engine is just losing coolant it could be a leak in the water pump, radiator or hoses.
Have a small engine oil leak that is just annoying but too expensive to fix? Tired of seeing small oil spots on your driveway or garage floor?
Anti-seize compound is an amazing product that can prevent frustrating and damaging thread seizure. Good quality copper based anti-seize is not particularly cheap and when you buy it in a larger tube or container it may take years to use it all... in fact you may never use it all.
Running badly means poor performance. It happens sooner or later to EVERY diesel owner. The word "performance" is often used to describe how well a diesel engine runs once started. The principles discussed will cover all Mercedes diesels from the mid 1950s to the mid 1990s.
Kent has an extra stash of nice new air compressor fittings. Look closely - these are the most common type with 1/4 inch NPT fittings. He is going to blow them out to our good customers...
Includes the following:
Dirko sealing compound is permanently elastic, cold vulcanizing, silicone-rubber based. Can be used for connecting joints, cylinder head, crankcase, oil sump, timing case, thermostat, water pump, transmission, axles, differential, radiator, chassis.
This right angle screwdriver is great for working in tight places - like removing speakers, voltage regulators, distributor caps, etc.
High quality lubricant to be used when assembling bearings in engines or in components that are oiled by engine oil. This WILL prevent scoring and wear upon initial start-up after overhaul.
Loctite Brand Form-A-Gasket Sealant in a 1.5 oz tube
This sealant is slow drying and non-hardening. For use in -65 - 400 Degrees F for sealing cut gaskets and cut parts with low adhesion
Another High Quality product from Lubro Moly. This is a 300ml can of Motor Oil Saver. It Rejuvenates rubber and plastic engine seals and reduces oil consumption via the piston rings and valve guides; counteracts the loss in viscosity of motor oils.
If you plan to change coolant hoses this is a must have labor saving tool. This is one cleverly designed tool. Could not have done it better myself. I actually use to make a couple different types before I found this one.
Almost all Mercedes gas and diesel engines from the late 50's up to the early 90's used pressed in steel pins to hold the timing chain guide rails in position (inside the engine block). Please note Diesels only up to 1985, excluding the 190D 201 chassis, gasoline v8 engines only up to 1991.
New 26 mm diameter engine oil drain plug. This was standard on all engines from the late 50's 180D all the way up to the 450SL V8 of the late 1970's including 4, 6, and 8 cylinder gas engines and all 4 and 5 cylinder diesels through 1976.
This "permanent" red threadlocker is probably the best that I have used. It has the best sealing cap and cures rapidly and reliably when confined between metal parts. Use it to lock threaded fasteners, nuts, bolts and screws from loosening.
soldout FITS THE FOLLOWING: All models PON, FIN, P55, 110, 111, 112, 113, 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 124, 126, and 201 chassis. Here is my all time favorite gasket maker and sealant.
Applies to all Mercedes, PON FIN P55 Pre 1960, 190SL, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 108, 109, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis. Boy is it nice to find quality tools that do not break the bank.