Over the years Kent has detailed hundreds of cars and you know from his videos that he likes "extreme" detailing. His absolute favorite two "tools of the trade" are these premium grade microfiber sponges and what he calls his soft bristle "sawed off" paint brushes.
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This video is free with the purchase of Kent's new dash cluster pull tool set. If you just want to see how he uses the tools and some tricks to get difficult clusters out you are welcome to purchase this video separately. Approximate run time is 20 minutes.
Removing a Mercedes instrument cluster from any of the chassis listed is easy with these special "pull" tools. Many owners do not realize that the instrument cluster is just pushed into the dash panel and not held in with any bolts or screws.
Wouldn’t it be grand if there was a way to remove your ignition tumbler without a key - then easily start the car using a flat blade screw driver or needle nose pliers and drive away?
This video is not only going to show you how to remove and replace the “screw cap” style tumbler, but it also going to explain the theory of operation and how to avoid certain pitfalls when doing this job yourself. And YES, there are pit falls.
If you have been around old Mercedes for any length of time, you have probably run into a problem with your ignition key starting to "stick" or one that would not turn. This problem can leave you stranded and could cost hundreds of dollars to fix $$$.
Excellent used instrument removed from a 125,000 mile 300SD. Good work tach and clock.
Appears to be a recent replacement. Not new buy teeth are not rusty and hardly any wear. You an also see the motor was spliced in. So you will have to splice your wiring. Check out Kent’s video if you need instructions on how to install.
This is an above average used door check strap. It was removed from a rear door so I does not have the usual wear associate with front door checks. No cracks in the cast frame. This will fit either right or left front or rear doors.
Set of chrome covers that go where the right side mirror should mount. No screws included.
Good seal to hold the cluster into the dash. If this gets damaged you cluster will not hold in tight to the dash opening. Most of the rubber gets very hard over time. This one is near perfect. No nicks and still super super soft!
Good used plate as shown. Chrome is excellent. No peeling. No small screw included. Does have the three tabs broken off on the back side but still fits well. You may have to use a dab of silicone sealant or goop to hold the bottom edge tight.
Very good used. Good chrome and not sloppy hinge.
Although not perfect, this may be one of the better 116 center dash wood pieces you will find. No major damage in the wood or finish, But there are a couple very fine line (hard to see) cracks in the finish coming off the bottom corners of the switch cutout.
For ONE 116, 123 and 126 Chassis Sedans, Coupes or Wagon Seat Bottom. This unique kit is designed to help you repair and restore one broken down front seat bottom so common in the 116, 123 and 126 chassis Mercedes built from 1973 to 1991.
Fits all chassis: 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, 201 and 124. This repair manual is written for all Mercedes models from the early 1970s up to the later 1980s.
For all 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis from 1965 to 1995. I wrote this repair guide to show you how to properly remove your instrument cluster and replace worn or failing components.
Interior water leaks are very common. More so on the older 108, 116, 114, 115. 123, and 126 chassis than on the 201 and 124 chassis. This is largely due to the fact that the older models used rubber seals on the rear glass and on the front windshield (except the 126).
Understanding how an inside rear view mirror is mounted is essential for proper removal and replacement. The mirror can be easily damaged if you do not know the tricks to getting it snapped back into the mounting bracket in the head liner.
In this video Kent shares his technique for removing a padded steering wheel on most 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, and 201 to 1985 chassis. These are the models WITHOUT an airbag.
In this video Kent shares his secrets on how to make the inside of an old Benz look like new again. Now granted, you must have a reasonably good car to start with. He is not going to show you how to reupholster, change seats and door panels, etc.
Good used seat pad as shown. Not perfect but better than most. May need additional foam in the center section to suit your "sitting" style.
Removed from 300SD with only 130,000 miles. Not worn excessively, but will need some cleaning. Front carpets are above average with no staining.
If you have a reasonably good front seat bottom that is just a little HARD to sit on for any length of time then this "booster" kit may help solve your problem.
Our seat spring repair kit has been a great success! It can easily repair sagging on broken front seat springs. But what about seat padding. A lot of the older ( 1970's to 1980's glued fiber seat padding can crush down and even disintegrate over time.
Cosmetically in excellent condition. No dash seal and no engine instrument cluster. No dimmer switch. Speedometer works but the odometer is slipping (181,944 miles). Have not tested clock or tach. No guarantees. No return. Priced accordingly.
The plastic seat adjustment handles are now one of the most common failure items on all 116 chassis sedans from 1973 to 1980 and all 123 chassis sedans, wagons and coupes from 1977 to 1985. It is just the nature of old plastic.
In this video, Kent will show you the step-by-step procedures for replacing your broken seat adjustment handle in 1973 to 1985 W116 and W123 Mercedes-Benz sedans, coupes and wagons.
Good used ashtray as shown. Above average but not perfect. There is one fine line crack in the finish in the wood but very hard to notice. Getting very hard to find in any nice condition.
The padding in the seats and the vinyl upholstery is WAY ABOVE average for a W116. Most W116 seats today have padding that is falling apart under the covers. PLEASE NOTE: These seats cannot be shipped. They must be picked up at our shop in Bellingham, Wa.
When you remove the old sunroof panel (1985 and older) from you Benz you will probably notice that the edges of the vinyl have come loose from the metal strapping. You will allow notice just how dirty it is once you have it out of the car and into the light.
This kit can help you apply the very best rubber and vinyl protectant in the world with efficiency and ease. It is great for that final detailing in the engine compartment to seal and protect all those plastic and rubber parts.
For all 108 109 114 115 107 116 123 126 201 and 124 Chassis 1968 to 1995 including those models that have a special cable installed to keep the transmission locked until the key was turned.
When you are out looking to buy an older Mercedes in this time period you have to be careful. You have heard that these old Benz (particularly the diesels) can go forever! So why is mileage that important. Because contrary to those "myths" they do not go forever without impeccable maintenance.
From my experience the only thing that goes wrong with the front seat back pockets is the top bungie cord that holds the net up wears out (loses its “spring”) and sags badly. When was the last time you saw a 1973 to early 1990's seat back netting that was NOT sagging???
Is your drivers seat starting to sag more than it use to? Are you finding it is just not comfortable any more on long trips? Maybe it tips to one side and you are constantly trying to compensate your weight to the other side.
For all 108, 109, 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 201, and 124 chassis from 1965 to 1995. I wrote this repair guide to show you how to properly remove your instrument cluster and replace worn or failing components. (NOTE: This is not a detailed manual on how to repair the components.
Instructions to walk you through removing the instrument cluster with the special tool and bulb replacement. PDF download is 2 pages and contains detailed pictures.
Removed from 1980 W116 300SD with only 120,000 miles. Both the speedometer and odometer have been bench tested and both work very well and very smoothly.
Exceptionally good cluster housing. Good cosmetics and clean plastic instrument covers. This is one of the best I have seen. From 300SD with only 120,000 miles. Does not include rubber seal that goes around housing.
Plastic adjusting knob with clip. Fits many years and models with manually adusting mirrors.
Good used set of reading lights with no corrosion. No breaks in plastic. CAN NOT GUARANTEE THE BULBS
Excellent used drivers door arm rest. Above average no cracks and metal attach point not damaged. Comes with thin chrome piece about the thick part of the back of the armrest.
Excellent sag-free seat spring removed from the right seat. Will fit right or left. No weak springs and no breaks. This one has super strong springs like in some of the later models. No instructions included.
Description: For late 450SL, 450SLC, 450SE, 450SEL as noted below. Fits ALL 300SD 1978 to 1980. Please note that the cruise control lever is not included. You will use that from your old unit. No instructions but easy and straightforward to install.
Mercedes Benz 450SE
For all 107 108 109 114 115 116 123 126 201 and 124 Chassis 1968 to 1995 including those models that have a special cable installed to keep the transmission locked until the key was turned.
Over the years I have used many different products to try to adhere chrome and trim pieces to body and interior panels. None has performed better for me than E6000. Silicone glue can't compete. When dry it holds like nothing else.
When changing a front door seal on one of the above chassis you most likely will ending up need new attachments clips (along front edge of door). The majority of the old clips will break when you try to remove them. T
Fits 114 115 116 123 and 126 Chassis. This set of detailed PDF instructions and plastic insertion tools with help you remove and install the front and rear door seals in your older Mercedes sedan or wagon.
Good used interior black plastic lock knob, common on most models in the 1970s and 1980s. This has good plastic and good threads. Sold as a single unit, if you need more, just change the quantity at checkout.