If you want to fix the engine fan motor or reduce the bearing noise coming from it, then this is how you can do it for a little over $200. You don't need to replace the entire engine fan assembly and you DON't have to resort to buying a used one off of eBay!
Search | Electrical
Good smooth working fan with good bracket bars as shown
Good smooth working fan with good working horns included. I have a couple of these so you may not receive the exact one as pictured. The color of bars/horns may be different.
Good used working trun signal stalk lever assembly as shown.
Cosmetic replacement. Very nice looking cigarette light, but I have not tested so can not confirm if it works or not. I may work fine but can not guarantee. Priced accordingly. Not returnable.
Many of the VERY early 126's had the wiring soldered to the power seat switch which makes it a real pain to change. This switch was pulled out of an 1981 300SD but it had already been modified with push on plug connectors so you could use a new easy-to-install plug in the future if you need to .
Good used working sunroof motor removed from W126 300SD with good red clutch adjustment lock nut. Will also work on 1981 to 1985 W123 but the mounting bracking may be different. You can use your exisiting bracket - easy to change.
Good used working (tested) sunroof motor and rubber drive bushing as shown.
Enter the dreaded “check engine” light. When it suddenly comes on it can create fear and panic in many a driver. Kent has known some people who have sold their cars cheap because they just did not want to deal with taking the car into a mechanic to get it fixed.
Good used very straight pulley.
Good used cover as shown. No breaks along the outer edge. Good gasket and thumb screws. Fuse box chart inside is for a diesel model is still in good condition ( not bent, not curled, very readable and clean. Getting very hard to find them this nice anymore.
Good ground cable as shown. Even includes good tightening bolt.
Most D.I.Y. Mercedes owners do not need a $100 to $200 "Check Engine Light" code reader / scan and reset tool.
This potentiometer for controlling the dash lights was recently removed from a 300D. It is obvious from the condition that it is a recent replacement. Can not be sure how old it is, but it has excellent spring and rod movement and no corrosion. NO LONGER AVAILABLE NEW.
A 12 volt test light is a very handy tool to have when working on any car but it is particularly important if you have a old diesel. This tool will allow you to quickly determine if there is power getting to your glow plugs, and if not where the power is breaking down.
Good ground cable as shown. You will need to supply your own bolt
When replacing the steering lock assembly in your Benz you will need to remove that little black plastic switch on the side of the lock from the old one and put it on the new part. You can not pry it off, squeeze it off or pull it off by hand.
Tired of lugging around heavy batteries or battery boosters to test electrical components in your car? It does not have to be a Mercedes. It does not even have to be a car. Anything that runs off 12 volt DC power can be tested by these small, light weight but very powerful batteries.
Electric power seats are great if they are working ok. When they do not work - especially in the fore and aft or tilt movement it can be very frustrating to even drive the car.
If your power seat is not working it is hard to determine if it is a switch, a motor under or inside the seat, or a wiring problem. From our experience xx % of the time the problem is in a worn out or failed electrical seat switch.
If your rear door power window is not moving or the motor is not making any noise, it could be a failed motor, rear door switch, front switch or even a wiring problem. Trying to narrow down the problem can be frustrating unless you know the proper troubleshooting sequence.
THESE ARE GENUINE BOSCH. Do not purchase the cheaper aftermarket regulators as we have found they do not last. This voltage regulator that bolts on to the back of your alternator. This is the common failure point and when it does you will not be getting any charge to your battery.
Original glove box card as shown in good used condition.
The voltage regulator is a very inexpensive part that usually wears out between 110,000 to 130,000 miles. It is often neglected and Kent believes many alternators have been replaced over the years when all they needed was a $25 to $30 voltage regulator!!!
If your engine temperature gauge is not reading at all, you need to fix it before you keep driving the car. To ignore this could lead to major engine failure, since you will have no way to get an adequate warning that your engine is about to overheat.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The fuse box cover is mounted flat to the firewall behind and to the left of the brake booster. You can not just pull it straight out nor can you just push it straight back on.
No expedited shipping. Please allow 3 to 5 business days before this part can be shipped. It is not located at our main shipping warehouse and sometimes it will need to be removed from a car before it can be cleaned and packed for shipping.
New voltage regulator to fit the following 201 and 124 models listed below from 1990 to 1995. No instructions included but not difficult to replace.
Fits the following
1992 and 1993 190E 2.3 ONLY (Does NOT fit 2.6 models!)
1990 to 1995
Works on most Early 116, 107, 114, 115 and early 123 models up to the end of the 1970s. This is a Meyle replacement for the Bosch rectangular voltage regulator (see image below) those cars that use an internal voltage regulator.
Buy a spare to carry in your trunk! FITS THE FOLLOWING: Late 107 and 116, 123, 126 up through 1991 and 201 and 124 chassis to through 1989. ALSO FITS 1990-1993 300D 2.5 AND 92-93 190E 2.6 ONLY!
W116 driver power window failure is very common. It happened to Kent's personal 1979 300SD.
New German made Glow Plug Relay for models and years listing. No instructions.
Brand new Glow plug relay. Fits only 1986 to 1987 300SDL and 1987 300D 300TD models.
Looking for better-staring performance? Are your glow system lights not coming on on your dash even after replacing the glow plugs? It it taking way too long for the glow light to go out ( it should only be on 5 to 10 seconds)?
Yes, there may be a fuse inside or outside your fuse box that controls your heater blower motor or another high amp draw electrical component. Most of the separate fuse holders require a 30 amp fuse. You may find a funny looking bent fuse inside your fuse box.
50 amp fuses were used on most 123 240D diesel glow plug systems due to the lower amp draw. 80 amp fuses will also work but some may choose to go with original spec. Check the number on the center of the fuse you are currently using. It should read either 50 or 80.
Tired of having to pull and hold the glow / starter knob on your old 110 or 115 chassis diesel? Hand getting tired? Waiting forever to get the glow plugs hot enough to start the engine? Wish the glow plugs would not burn out so often?
Fits chassis 116 123 126 124 and 201 Diesels with pencil glow plugs, from 1978 to 1989. This includes the OM617, OM601, OM602, and OM603 engines. They also work on 1977 to 1979 300D 300CD and 300TD with series glow plugs. This pack includes three individual fuses.
Set of 5 High Quality German made Monark Glow Plugs complete with a detailed Glow plug removal and replacement manual written by Kent Bergsma. Last known glow plugs to be still manufactured in Germany. Fits 124 chassis 300D 2.5 from 1990 to 1993, and 1989 190D 2.5 ONLY.
Can be installed on the following models: Please read carefully. All Turbo 116 and 126 300SD 1978 to 1985. All 123 turbo and non turbo 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 1980 to 1985. 1984 to 1989 201 190D. 1986 to 1991 126 300SDL 350SD and 350SDL. 1986 to 1993 124 300D and 300TD.
Fits the Following, 1975 to 1976 ONLY 115 chassis 300D and 123 chassis 300D 300CD and 300TD from 1977 to 1979 with series style loop glow plugs. SVO / WVO applicable. If you are tired of glow plug problems, then this kit is made for you.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The diesel requires a big and heavy battery that is not as easy to remove and replace as you would think. If you are not careful, you can tweak your lower back lifting one out of the car.
An annoying problem on many older Mercedes up to 1980 that have an aluminum housing surrounding the turn signal arm latching assembly. When these wear out the lever will not hold position when you push it up or down.
To many people, automotive electrical systems and testing are a big mystery. It is not as complicated as you might think.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
Malfunctioning and failed power window regulators (mechanisms) are so common on older Mercedes that Kent can almost guarantee if you own one and drive it regularly you will have to fix one at some point.
When the motor won't move the window down you can not get to the bolts that hold the regulator to the glass. So then how can you get it out of the door! What a pain! In this xxx minute video Kent will show you what you need to do in order to get a "stuck" power window regulator out of a door.
Good used cover as shown. One very small chip along the outer corner edge. You can not see it when installed. Good gasket and thumbscrews.