Cosmetic replacement. Very nice looking cigarette light, but I have not tested so can not confirm if it works or not. I may work fine but can not guarantee. Priced accordingly. Not returnable.
Search | Electrical
Enter the dreaded “check engine” light. When it suddenly comes on it can create fear and panic in many a driver. Kent has known some people who have sold their cars cheap because they just did not want to deal with taking the car into a mechanic to get it fixed.
Good ground cable as shown. Even includes good tightening bolt.
Set of good working switches for your 300TD wagon. Wood is not the best but could be used if yours is worse.
Most D.I.Y. Mercedes owners do not need a $100 to $200 "Check Engine Light" code reader / scan and reset tool.
A 12 volt test light is a very handy tool to have when working on any car but it is particularly important if you have a old diesel. This tool will allow you to quickly determine if there is power getting to your glow plugs, and if not where the power is breaking down.
Good ground cable as shown. You will need to supply your own bolt
When replacing the steering lock assembly in your Benz you will need to remove that little black plastic switch on the side of the lock from the old one and put it on the new part. You can not pry it off, squeeze it off or pull it off by hand.
Tired of lugging around heavy batteries or battery boosters to test electrical components in your car? It does not have to be a Mercedes. It does not even have to be a car. Anything that runs off 12 volt DC power can be tested by these small, light weight but very powerful batteries.
Electric power seats are great if they are working ok. When they do not work - especially in the fore and aft or tilt movement it can be very frustrating to even drive the car.
If your power seat is not working it is hard to determine if it is a switch, a motor under or inside the seat, or a wiring problem. From our experience xx % of the time the problem is in a worn out or failed electrical seat switch.
If your rear door power window is not moving or the motor is not making any noise, it could be a failed motor, rear door switch, front switch or even a wiring problem. Trying to narrow down the problem can be frustrating unless you know the proper troubleshooting sequence.
THESE ARE GENUINE BOSCH. Do not purchase the cheaper aftermarket regulators as we have found they do not last. This voltage regulator that bolts on to the back of your alternator. This is the common failure point and when it does you will not be getting any charge to your battery.
The voltage regulator is a very inexpensive part that usually wears out between 110,000 to 130,000 miles. It is often neglected and Kent believes many alternators have been replaced over the years when all they needed was a $25 to $30 voltage regulator!!!
If your engine temperature gauge is not reading at all, you need to fix it before you keep driving the car. To ignore this could lead to major engine failure, since you will have no way to get an adequate warning that your engine is about to overheat.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The fuse box cover is mounted flat to the firewall behind and to the left of the brake booster. You can not just pull it straight out nor can you just push it straight back on.
New voltage regulator to fit the following 201 and 124 models listed below from 1990 to 1995. No instructions included but not difficult to replace.
Fits the following
1992 and 1993 190E 2.3 ONLY (Does NOT fit 2.6 models!)
1990 to 1995
Works on most Early 116, 107, 114, 115 and early 123 models up to the end of the 1970s. This is a replacement for the Bosch rectangular voltage regulator (see image below) those cars that use an internal voltage regulator.
Buy a spare to carry in your trunk! FITS THE FOLLOWING: Late 107 and 116, 123, 126 up through 1991 and 201 and 124 chassis to through 1989. ALSO FITS 1990-1993 300D 2.5 AND 92-93 190E 2.6 ONLY!
W116 driver power window failure is very common. It happened to Kent's personal 1979 300SD.
Special price only 6 available. New Aftermarket Glow Plug Relay for models and years listing. PLEASE NOTE: cover is not included. You will have to use that from your old relay. Easy install. No instructions included.
Looking for better-staring performance? Are your glow system lights not coming on on your dash even after replacing the glow plugs? It it taking way too long for the glow light to go out ( it should only be on 5 to 10 seconds)?
Yes, there may be a fuse inside or outside your fuse box that controls your heater blower motor or another high amp draw electrical component. Most of the separate fuse holders require a 30 amp fuse. You may find a funny looking bent fuse inside your fuse box.
50 amp fuses were used on most 123 240D diesel glow plug systems due to the lower amp draw. 80 amp fuses will also work but some may choose to go with original spec. Check the number on the center of the fuse you are currently using. It should read either 50 or 80.
Tired of having to pull and hold the glow / starter knob on your old 110 or 115 chassis diesel? Hand getting tired? Waiting forever to get the glow plugs hot enough to start the engine? Wish the glow plugs would not burn out so often?
Fits chassis 116 123 126 124 and 201 Diesels with pencil glow plugs, from 1978 to 1989. This includes the OM617, OM601, OM602, and OM603 engines. They also work on 1977 to 1979 300D 300CD and 300TD with series glow plugs. This pack includes three individual fuses.
Set of 5 High Quality German made Monark Glow Plugs complete with a detailed Glow plug removal and replacement manual written by Kent Bergsma. Last known glow plugs to be still manufactured in Germany. Fits 124 chassis 300D 2.5 from 1990 to 1993, and 1989 190D 2.5 ONLY.
Can be installed on the following models: Please read carefully. All Turbo 116 and 126 300SD 1978 to 1985. All 123 turbo and non turbo 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 1980 to 1985. 1984 to 1989 201 190D. 1986 to 1991 126 300SDL 350SD and 350SDL. 1986 to 1993 124 300D and 300TD.
Fits the Following, 1975 to 1976 ONLY 115 chassis 300D and 123 chassis 300D 300CD and 300TD from 1977 to 1979 with series style loop glow plugs. SVO / WVO applicable. If you are tired of glow plug problems, then this kit is made for you.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The diesel requires a big and heavy battery that is not as easy to remove and replace as you would think. If you are not careful, you can tweak your lower back lifting one out of the car.
An annoying problem on many older Mercedes up to 1980 that have an aluminum housing surrounding the turn signal arm latching assembly. When these wear out the lever will not hold position when you push it up or down.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
Malfunctioning and failed power window regulators (mechanisms) are so common on older Mercedes that Kent can almost guarantee if you own one and drive it regularly you will have to fix one at some point.
Replace worn or broken push buttons or temp wheel. Only one available. What you see is what you get. See picture below to confrim.
This is a high-quality ACM aftermarket part. The fan runs smooth and air movement is very strong.
Is your old gas engine running a little rough? There could be lots of reasons for this but if you have good compression, good plugs and wires you might consider replacing your O2 sensor even if your warning light is not showing up. This is an easy DIY job.
This is a part that hardly ever gets changed and it is an easy DIY job if you can access under your Benz. Make sure your model fits those described and has an O2 sensor installed. You can confirm that by the existance of a o2 sensor warning light on your dash.
Rebuilt alternator as shown with new pulley installed.
Only one available. VERY GOOD CONDITION. Completely cleaned, lubricated, and tested with new antenna mast installed. Has the more reliable toothed antenna mast.
Rebuilt and sealed unit by a professional electronic component rebuilder. Replacing this unit will solve most BUT NOT ALL cruise control problems on your W126 Mercedes.
Rebuilt and sealed unit by a professional electronic component rebuilder. Replacing this unit will solve most BUT NOT ALL cruise control problems on your 380SL roadster.
Excellent condition. Very smooth running.
This is one of the nicest I have seen both inside and out. Complete with the attachment through the rear glass hardware. Kent will also include at no extra charge his on-demand video on restoring one of these. This will show you how to remove and replace it in your wagon.
I think well over half of all W123 wagon rear hatch wiper assemblies are either stuck, broken, inoperative, noisy or just won't part properly. The main reason for all these failures is lack of service ( ie lubrication ). It just never gets done.
BRAND NEW! never on a car. You can used for parts or just cut off and use the new dimmer switch on your LS. No oil pressure!
Very good later version Hirschmann antenna as shown ( factory replacement for the initial all aluminum antenna. Complete with inside braket and fender mounting hardware. Fully cleaned and lubed with new antenna mast installed. Very smooth operation.
Rebuilt and sealed unit by a professional electronic component rebuilder. Replacing this unit will solve most BUT NOT ALL cruise control problems on your turbo diesel 123 300D sedan.
NEW reman as shown. You will need to use the front pulley and fan assembly off your current bad alternator..
ONLY this one is available. Getting hard to find in good used condition. NLA