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This is a genuine Mercedes used part. These are much stronger than the aftermarket ones available. Genuine are no longer made. No damage to the slot or the threads. Only for models listed. Does not work on later aluminum diesel engines. Collar nut holds pre-chamber in cylinder head.
PLEASE NOTE: Manual(s) are now available in PDF format and are available for viewing when you log into your account at Mercedessource.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: 1985 to 1993 W124, W126, and W201 chassis with a 6 cylinder 103 engine. Is your M103 six cylinder engine not running as smoothly as it use to. These wires should be changed at 70,0000 to 80,000 miles for smooth running and peak performance.
In this 19-minute instructional video, Kent will walk you through the process of removing the drive belt, explain what you should inspect at the front of your engine, and show you how to install the parts that always seem to wear out around 100K miles.
Emergency brake shoe maintenance is often neglected because the rear brake disc / rotor has to be removed to inspect and repair them. If the car has ever been driven a long distance with the emergency brake on, expect problems.
I have heard numerous stories of owners throwing parts at leaks in their air suspension, only to discover that it does not fix the problem, which led me to develop this pressure tester. My motto is to test first, then buy parts.
Set of (2). The number one cause of a loose or rattling shift lever is failed or missing shift lever bushings. Our upgraded bushings are made out of nylon and are much tougher than the original plastic type. No instructions or special tools included.
Application: Fits all 5-cylinder 116 and 126 Chassis diesel engines 300SD from 1978 to 1985 and all 123 Chassis 300D, 300CD, and
Kent came up with this kit because of all the times he replaced e-brake shoes only to end up with battered knuckles and extreme headaches. This video is included free with the purchase of the toolkit.
This kit has enough red clips (60) to do both sides on the 123 240D, 300D, 300TD, 300CD, 280E, and 280CE. You will receive the best tool to remove the side trim and the best tool to remove the old red clips from the side trim after removal.
Good working parts as shown. Oil pressure gauge has been REMOVED. PARTS ONLY.
Mercedes 114, 115, 107, 116, 123, 126, 124, and 201 chassis window trim has a super strong anodized coating that is impervious to hand polishing but still can oxidize when exposed to harsh environmental elements. When this happens the trim becomes spotted and milky in color and it is NOT pretty!
This is now becoming one of the most common oil leaks in 1968 to 1985 diesel engines. Let's face it. These engines are getting older and the rubber seal is wearing and becoming more brittle with time.
This part wears out over time and can cause a number of problems. Door clunking going over rough ground, door not closing easily, door accidentally popping open while driving, or you find yourself slamming the door just to get it fully closed.
This part wears out over time and can cause a number of problems. Door clunking going over rough ground, door not closing easily, door accidentally popping open while driving, or you find yourself slamming the door just to get it fully closed.
I call this the hidden and forgotten bushing. Why? Because you can not see it to inspect it, it hardly ever gets changed. When these bushings wear out you will feel "weird" movement in your rear end, especially going over rough ground.
Unless the engine has been overhauled most of these old 6 cylinder gas engines of the '60s and very early '70s are running around with their original front crank seal. Take a look under your car if you have one - I bet it will look a lot like the engine in the video below.
VERY high-quality socket as shown.
In this 10-minute instructional video, Kent will show you the location of the thermostat on both engines, explain why they should be replaced every 40,000 to 50,000 miles, and wrap up with installation tips that should help you do it yourself.
Custom ordered for a better fit than original! special Oring seal for the bowden cable housing where it connects to the right side of the automatic transmission. This is a common leak area and you may be fooled into thinking it is leaking out of the pan gasket.
Includes Kent's four detailed videos on every aspect of this job! This is now becoming one of the most common oil leaks in 1968 to 1985 diesel engines. Let's face it.
You will save $$ by purchasing the complete kit. Each item can be purchased separately in the related products below. Click on each one to learn the specifics of each product included here.
If you have a VERY slow leak in your Airmatic Mercedes, trying to find it can be very frustrating. It could be in the valve block, one of the lines, or the Airmatic strut itself. Small leaks in the strut can be the hardest to find if you cannot hear it.
For all 3.5, 3.8, and 4.2 liter V8 engines from 1969 to 1991 280SE 3.5, 300SEL 3.5, 380SE, 380SEC, 380SEL, 380SL and 420SEL. These THREE are the upper (and easily accessible) plastic guide rails that most often break due to age and heat.
The bowden cable runs from the transmission to the throttle linkage on many Mercedes from the early 1980's up through the early mid 1990's. When this cable fails or is out of adjustment the transmission will either shift too early or too late.
Contains all supplies and video instructions you need - except a multitool (see description. )Ever wish you could get rid of the annoying wiper scratches on your front windshield (or rear hatch glass if you have a rear wiper)?
There are a number of things that can go wrong with a W123 instrument cluster.
It is the bushing you can not see and it is very hard to inspect. There are two ways you can replace them.
Emergency brake shoe maintenance is often neglected because the rear brake disc / rotor has to be removed to inspect and repair them. If the car has ever been driven a long distance with the emergency brake on, expect problems.
This socket is the correct size to use with our R107 Fuel Tank Screen Removal Tool ( See below:). It is a heavy-walled 27 mm black impact grade socket made in the U.S.A.
We love the quality of Bremi wires. Kent prefers them on his own cars. We even throw in some silicone grease and show you how to apply it.
You will save $$ by purchasing the complete kit. Each item can be purchased separately in the related products below. Click on each one to learn the specifics of each product included here.
This is a special pre-chamber threaded fitting that you can attach to YOUR slide hammer to remove the pre chamber on 1990 to 1991 350SD 350SDL (126 chassis), 1990 to 1993 300D 2.5 (124 chassis), and 1992 to 1995 300SD / S350 (140 chassis). You will need to own or purchase a 5 lb slide hammer a
This is not a difficult part to replace, but it does require you to remove the belt and one pulley. A good time to replace this part is at the 80 to 100K inspection interval since you will already be removing / replacing the belt and pulleys.
In this video, Kent will show you how to safely and cleanly remove the fuel from the tank on your older Benz. You will need to drain the fuel anytime you replace the back end hoses, the tank filter screen, the fuel pump or the fuel filter.
8/2022 Update: We have modifed a new wrench for this kit so it may not look the same as that shown in previous YouTube videos, but it will do the same or even better job! We do sell the water pumps individually, but we decided to offer this complete kit to make a diesel pump installation go easie
This is a set of four STAINLESS STEEL custom machined Torx head door striker bolts. They will eliminate many headaches related to door closing issues on the W126 and 560SL doors.
PLEASE NOTE: Manual(s) are now available in PDF format and are available for viewing when you log into your account at Mercedessource.
This video is not only going to show you how to remove and replace the “SNAP cap” style tumbler, but it also going to explain the theory of operation and how to avoid certain pitfalls when doing this job yourself. And YES, there are pitfalls.
If your serpentine belt is starting to crack or the back side is worn smooth, you need to replace it. If you are hearing strange noises from the front of your 1986 to 1993 six cylinder gas engine, you will need to remove the belt to troubleshoot the problem.
In this 13-and-a-half-minute instruction video, Kent will show you the critical steps in removing and replacing the motor mounts in a W211 E500. The key steps will apply to all M112 and M113 engines, although specific details are not covered for every model.
In this 12-minute instructional video, Kent will explain all his tips and tricks on getting these belts off and on easily. He will demonstrate his custom tool and how to "pin" the tensioner.
Kent takes you through the process of removing and installing the shock absorbers on your own R107. The video specifically shows the work being done on a 380SL. Other models may have slight variations but the basic principles are the same.
On most D-jetronic engines, the fuel injector wiring plugs are hard and brittle, and the boots are torn or missing altogether. You may say, "If it is working, why fix it? Watch the videos below to understand why this is important and how easy it would be for you to do it yourself.
BIG punch. Must have for the DIY mechanic. Good for driving and good for aligning holes.
Very handle for alighning shocks and other suspension parts during assembly.
This is the most complete front reseal kit on the market today. It includes Kents new IMAGE-BY-IMAGE instructions. That means there is an image for every single step in the operation of replacing these 2 (Yes there are 2!) critical front seals.
For E320, ML320, C240, C280 and C320. Every M112 V6 I have worked on starts making front engine bearing noise around 90K to 100K. Almost like clockwork! This is a service you will want to perform whether you have had your Benz for a long time or just purchased one.