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If you are planning to install new glow plugs in your 601 engine, 190D from 1984-1986, it is essential that you ream the carbon out of the holes to prevent premature failure of your new plugs.
Tired of having to pull and hold the glow / starter knob on your old 110 or 115 chassis diesel? Hand getting tired? Waiting forever to get the glow plugs hot enough to start the engine? Wish the glow plugs would not burn out so often?
Cleaning out the carbon is a MUST anytime you change glow plugs in these engines. If you don't do this your engine will not run as well a startup and it will shorten the life of the new plugs. This is a high quality custom made glow reamer. All steel body. Made by Kent Bergsma.
WARNING: PLEASE confirm you have the original engine in your diesel BEFORE ORDERING this kit. We keep getting owners ordering this kit only to find out a later model engine has been installed. This happens quite often.
If you own an early 123 4 cylinder diesel then this is a must have diesel engine kit! This glow plug upgrade will do three things that will put a smile on your face: 1. Your engine will start faster and cold idle smoother. 2. Your glow plugs will last longer. 3.
There are other brands of brake pad anti-squeal paste on the market, but for me the factory Mercedes paste has proven to be the most effective. It simply stays in place and holds up better over the long haul.
Fits chassis 116 123 126 124 and 201 Diesels with pencil glow plugs, from 1978 to 1989. This includes the OM617, OM601, OM602, and OM603 engines. They also work on 1977 to 1979 300D 300CD and 300TD with series glow plugs. This pack includes three individual fuses.
Set of 5 High Quality Bosch Glow Plugs complete with a detailed Glow plug removal and replacement manual written by Kent Bergsma. These fit 124 chassis 300D 2.5 from 1990 to 1993, and 1989 190D 2.5 ONLY.
New Drive shaft center support bearing. Fits all 240D, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 300SD 300SDL 300CE 300E 420SEL 380SE 280SL 450SL 560SL, gasoline and diesel models from 1968 to 1993. This bearing may need replacing on high mileage cars.
PENCIL GLOW PLUGS ONLY!! WILL NOT WORK ON MODELS WITH THE OLD STYLE LARGE THREAD SERIES TYPE. For 1978 to 85 300SD Turbos / 1980 to 93 240D / 300D 300TD 300CD 190D 300SD 300SDL 350SDL. When was the last time your glow plug chambers were reamed out?
This kit includes a New Mercedes OEM fuel tank filter screen along with a special tool I have made to remove and install it. It will save you the time and expense of running out and buying a great big Allen wrench.
New German made fast heat glow plug designed to replace the series loop tip style glow plugs that were installed in all non-turbo diesel engines up to 1979. These have the large thread built in so they will install directly into the older heads.
Fits late model 123 sedans ONLY from 1981 to 1985, such as the 300D. Be sure your gas door lock actuator matches this before ordering! This is a new plastic sealed unit as used on the later models.
Fits the Following: All 107,116,123 and 126 Chassis from 1973-1991.
This is a set of 8 Front brake pad sensor wires. The front brakes require two per side. Nice to have spares on hand!
Can be installed on the following models: Please read carefully. All Turbo 116 and 126 300SD 1978 to 1985. All 123 turbo and non turbo 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 1980 to 1985. 1984 to 1989 201 190D. 1986 to 1991 126 300SDL 350SD and 350SDL. 1986 to 1993 124 300D and 300TD.
Can only be shipped UPS GROUND. NO INTERNATIONAL. Extra packaging charges may apply. It some cases it may be shipped in its own box depending on the size of your order and the other products included.
Fits the Following, 1975 to 1976 ONLY 115 chassis 300D and 123 chassis 300D 300CD and 300TD from 1977 to 1979 with series style loop glow plugs. SVO / WVO applicable. If you are tired of glow plug problems, then this kit is made for you.
Does your rear end make funny noises while driving? Does the rear of your car sag in the back? Do you have excessive rear tire wear? Does the rear of your car feel like it is moving around? During heavy braking or rapid acceleration does your Mercedes want to steer right or left on its own!
Adjusting the power tilting sunroof is not difficult if you have the right knowledge and a couple alignment pin tools. Adjustment is not usually needed if the sunroof is working properly.
Manual sunroofs can have problems too. Just like their electrically operated counterparts, most often they will fail due to lack of lubrication. The number one failure point is a broken T handle. Number two is failure of the roof to close properly due to damaged felt feet and plastic slides.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The diesel requires a big and heavy battery that is not as easy to remove and replace as you would think. If you are not careful, you can tweak your lower back lifting one out of the car.
Doing your own diesel oil changes is not difficult. Granted you won't save a lot of money, but it will get you to regularly inspect your engine for oil leaks, etc and it will guarantee the job gets done right.
Anytime you need to replace the side marker turn signal lens or the bulb inside you will need to remove it from the front fender. You will also need to remove it if you plan on pulling the full headlight assembly.
It is not as easy to remove the right side underdash panel in the 126 chassis as you might think. There are a number of hidden fasteners, some of which can be a little confusing as to how to remove properly. Kent has seen a lot of broken and damaged panels that confirm this.
An annoying problem on many older Mercedes up to 1980 that have an aluminum housing surrounding the turn signal arm latching assembly. When these wear out the lever will not hold position when you push it up or down.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
Understanding how an inside rear view mirror is mounted is essential for proper removal and replacement. The mirror can be easily damaged if you do not know the tricks to getting it snapped back into the mounting bracket in the head liner.
In this video Kent shares his technique for removing a padded steering wheel on most 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, and 201 to 1985 chassis. These are the models WITHOUT an airbag.
Groaning, snaping and jammed door check straps are a common problem on the older models (up through 1995). This is primarily due to age and lack of lubrication. Newer models will soon start having similar problems. Rain water getting inside the doors is the big killer.
Diesel engines make noise. Some ticking and rattling is normal and not something you should be concerned about. Certain loud knocking or rattling noises could be a sign that something bad is happening to the engine, especially if the noise comes on suddenly.
This is part 2 of a 4 part video series Kent has done on repairing the power tilting sunroofs on the W201 W126 and W124 chassis built from 1986 to 1995. Part 1 covers removal and replacement of the sunroof panel and headliner.
If your transmission is shifting too soon it can really rob your car of power and acceleration. If it is shifting too late it can be very loud and annoying and even affect fuel economy.
To many people, automotive electrical systems and testing are a big mystery. It is not as complicated as you might think.
The driver's side W124 under dash panel can be a little tricky to remove due to all the hidden fasteners. Without knowing where these are and how to get to them, removal can be frustrating and it is easy to break the plastic covers.
When working under a Benz having the right equipment to put the car and hold it safely up in the air is very important. Always think safety, and the type of equipment and how it is used plays the key role in keeping you safe.
You will need to remove the W126 chassis center console upper wood panel when replacing the climate control switch panel, replacing any of the upper switches, replacing burned out light bulbs and /or when remove the center console or the upper dash.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
In this 10 minute video class Kent shows you what you should initially look for when checking out an older Mercedes for sale. He routinely does a quick 3 to 5 minute walk around to determine if the car passes his priority three part test.
Those three areas on inspection are:
There is nothing better than a good buff and wax to bring out the shine on an old Benz. Particularly if the car has not been waxed in a couple years! The results are directly related to the amount of work you put into it.
Why would you need to remove a fuel tank? If it is heavily rusted or contaminated sometimes it is just easier to find a good used fuel tank and replace it. Trying to clean a heavily gummed up fuel tank is a real challenge.
Malfunctioning and failed power window regulators (mechanisms) are so common on older Mercedes that Kent can almost guarantee if you own one and drive it regularly you will have to fix one at some point.
In this video Kent shares his secrets on how to make the inside of an old Benz look like new again. Now granted, you must have a reasonably good car to start with. He is not going to show you how to reupholster, change seats and door panels, etc.
In this video Kent will walk you through the step-by-step procedures he uses when diagnosing and repairing an older Mercedes diesel engine that either won't start or is very difficult to start.
This heavy, specially made fiberglass mat has thick bias ply fiberglass cloth, and the mat is very stiff even before you add resin or Miracle Paint. SOLD IN PRECUT PIECE 12" x 15".
If your diesel engine is starting to shut off very slowly or maybe not at all and you know your vacuum system is ok, it may be time to replace the vacuum fuel shutoff valve located at the rear of the injection pump.
For all 201 chassis 190E and 190D built from 1984 to 1993. This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure.
For all Mercedes 124 chassis cars from 1986 to 1993. This includes the 260E, 300E, 300D, 300CE, 300TE, and 400E. This is the repair kit you 124 owners have been waiting for.
This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure.
This repair guide will take you through the process of how to properly remove your heater blower motor and replace the motors two brushes. This is the most common reason for failure.