FITS THE FOLLOWING: All Mercedes Chassis 111 113 108 109 107 114 115 116 123 126 from 1968 to 1991 (not applicable for 201 or 124 chassis). This is a very common wear problem on most older Mercedes.
This unique kit will allow you to hook up a 30 in HG vacuum gauge between your vacuum control shifting valve (VCV) and your transmission modulator to test the VCV for proper function and to tune it for peak shifting performance.
Applicable to 114 115 116 123 and 126 Chassis, years and models listed above. Troubleshooting an annoying shift problem must first start with the vacuum modulator.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: ALL 123 and 126 chassis 240D, 300D, 300TD, 300CD, and 300SD 1980 to 1985 with later style vacuum pump (only one line coming out of top). In 1980, Mercedes changed the design of its diesel vacuum pumps.
These steel cupped heat shields go under the rubber mounts to help deflect heat and grease away. In most cases (unless your engine is severely shaking) they will prolong the life of the rubber mounts.
I don't think there is any owner out there who has owned a 1978 to 1993 diesel automatic for any length of time and who has not had some sort of shift problem with the transmission. Maybe it was just a little jerk or a slipping shift. Maybe the rear end clunked hard when you came to a stop.
Rough running diesels abound everywhere. The symptoms include poor acceleration, no power, and excess exhaust smoke. Some times these can be a sign of real problems. Other times it may mean your fuel injection system just needs a good cleaning. And NOTHING cleans better than Diesel Purge.
Interior water leaks are very common. More so on the older 108, 116, 114, 115. 123, and 126 chassis than on the 201 and 124 chassis. This is largely due to the fact that the older models used rubber seals on the rear glass and on the front windshield (except the 126).
When used for bleeding or flushing your brake system, a single person can do a rapid fluid flush! No mess and very efficient. Will work on all Mercedes from 1968 to 1995 - Also select 1960's models and most later chassis up to 2006 see list below: 25-minute video instructions are now included.
Only two plugs are available. These are best for spares with an engine that already has fast pencil plugs installed. They fit 4-cylinder flat head diesel 636 engines built in the 1950s.
Yes, there may be a fuse inside or outside your fuse box that controls your heater blower motor or another high amp draw electrical component. Most of the separate fuse holders require a 30 amp fuse. You may find a funny looking bent fuse inside your fuse box.
50 amp fuses were used on most 123 240D diesel glow plug systems due to the lower amp draw. 80 amp fuses will also work but some may choose to go with original spec. Check the number on the center of the fuse you are currently using. It should read either 50 or 80.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY. This glow plug works ONLY in those years and models listed above. SOLD INDIVIDUALLY. If you need five please change your cart total to 5. If you need 6 then change the total to 6. PLEASE NOTE: NO INSTRUCTIONS and NO WIRE NUTS are included.
This custom reamer designed and built by Kent Bergsma in our shop is the only one like it in the World. This is truly another first. Now you will be able to ream out that old crusty carbon build-up in your old diesel engine. Thread size matches old series-style glow plugs. 18 x 1.5
If you are planning to install new glow plugs in your 601 engine, 190D from 1984-1986, it is essential that you ream the carbon out of the holes to prevent premature failure of your new plugs.
Tired of having to pull and hold the glow / starter knob on your old 110 or 115 chassis diesel? Hand getting tired? Waiting forever to get the glow plugs hot enough to start the engine? Wish the glow plugs would not burn out so often?
Cleaning out the carbon is a MUST anytime you change glow plugs in these engines. If you don't do this your engine will not run as well a startup and it will shorten the life of the new plugs. This is a high quality custom made glow reamer. All steel body. Made by Kent Bergsma.
WARNING: PLEASE confirm you have the original engine in your diesel BEFORE ORDERING this kit. We keep getting owners ordering this kit only to find out a later model engine has been installed. This happens quite often.
If you own an early 123 4-cylinder diesel, then this is a must-have diesel engine kit! This glow plug upgrade will do three things that will put a smile on your face: 1. Your engine will start faster and cold idle smoother. 2. Your glow plugs will last longer. 3.
There are other brands of brake pad anti-squeal paste on the market, but for me the factory Mercedes paste has proven to be the most effective. It simply stays in place and holds up better over the long haul.
Fits chassis 116 123 126 124 and 201 Diesels with pencil glow plugs, from 1978 to 1989. This includes the OM617, OM601, OM602, and OM603 engines. They also work on 1977 to 1979 300D 300CD and 300TD with series glow plugs. This pack includes three individual fuses.
Set of 5 High Quality Bosch Glow Plugs complete with a detailed Glow plug removal and replacement manual written by Kent Bergsma. These fit 124 chassis 300D 2.5 from 1990 to 1993, and 1989 190D 2.5 ONLY.
Made in Germany. Application: Fits all 4 cylinder 240D diesel engines from 1980 to 1983 with pencil glow plugs. Excellent quality. They are built with the same materials and have the same specifications as the Bosch Duraterm pencil plugs.
PENCIL GLOW PLUGS ONLY!! WILL NOT WORK ON MODELS WITH THE OLD STYLE LARGE THREAD SERIES TYPE. For 1978 to 85 300SD Turbos / 1980 to 93 240D / 300D 300TD 300CD 190D 300SD 300SDL 350SDL. When was the last time your glow plug chambers were reamed out?
This kit includes a New Mercedes OEM fuel tank filter screen along with a special tool I have made to remove and install it. It will save you the time and expense of running out and buying a great big Allen wrench.
New German made fast heat glow plug designed to replace the series loop tip style glow plugs that were installed in all non-turbo diesel engines up to 1979. These have the large thread built in so they will install directly into the older heads.
Fits late model 123 sedans ONLY from 1981 to 1985, such as the 300D. Be sure your gas door lock actuator matches this before ordering! This is a new plastic sealed unit as used on the later models. NOS last one at this price.
FITS THE FOLLOWING: all 126 chassis SEDANS from 1981 to 1991, including 300SD 380SE 380SEL 500SEL . Are you tired of the water leaks into the trunk and rear carpet area? Windows all fog up when you get in the car in the morning. Sick of that musty smell in the trunk and cabin.
Fits the Following: All 107,116,123 and 126 Chassis from 1973-1991.
This is a set of 8 Front brake pad sensor wires. The front brakes require two per side. Nice to have spares on hand!
Can only be shipped UPS GROUND. NO INTERNATIONAL. Extra packaging charges may apply. It some cases it may be shipped in its own box depending on the size of your order and the other products included.
Can be installed on the following models: Please read carefully. All Turbo 116 and 126 300SD 1978 to 1985. All 123 turbo and non turbo 240D 300D 300CD 300TD 1980 to 1985. 1984 to 1989 201 190D. 1986 to 1991 126 300SDL 350SD and 350SDL. 1986 to 1993 124 300D and 300TD.
Fits the Following, 1975 to 1976 ONLY 115 chassis 300D and 123 chassis 300D 300CD and 300TD from 1977 to 1979 with series style loop glow plugs. SVO / WVO applicable. If you are tired of glow plug problems, then this kit is made for you.
Does your rear end make funny noises while driving? Does the rear of your car sag in the back? Do you have excessive rear tire wear? Does the rear of your car feel like it is moving around? During heavy braking or rapid acceleration does your Mercedes want to steer right or left on its own!
Adjusting the power tilting sunroof is not difficult if you have the right knowledge and a couple alignment pin tools. Adjustment is not usually needed if the sunroof is working properly.
Manual sunroofs can have problems too. Just like their electrically operated counterparts, most often they will fail due to lack of lubrication. The number one failure point is a broken T handle. Number two is failure of the roof to close properly due to damaged felt feet and plastic slides.
This is another small "frustration" for W123 diesel owners. The diesel requires a big and heavy battery that is not as easy to remove and replace as you would think. If you are not careful, you can tweak your lower back lifting one out of the car.
Doing your own diesel oil changes is not difficult. Granted you won't save a lot of money, but it will get you to regularly inspect your engine for oil leaks, etc and it will guarantee the job gets done right.
Anytime you need to replace the side marker turn signal lens or the bulb inside you will need to remove it from the front fender. You will also need to remove it if you plan on pulling the full headlight assembly.
It is not as easy to remove the right side underdash panel in the 126 chassis as you might think. There are a number of hidden fasteners, some of which can be a little confusing as to how to remove properly. Kent has seen a lot of broken and damaged panels that confirm this.
An annoying problem on many older Mercedes up to 1980 that have an aluminum housing surrounding the turn signal arm latching assembly. When these wear out the lever will not hold position when you push it up or down.
When an old Mercedes ( or any other car for that matter ) has sat idle for over a year it can be a challenge to get it safely back on the road again. If it has sat idle for more than 5 years you may find it difficult to even get the engine running.
Understanding how an inside rear view mirror is mounted is essential for proper removal and replacement. The mirror can be easily damaged if you do not know the tricks to getting it snapped back into the mounting bracket in the head liner.
In this video Kent shares his technique for removing a padded steering wheel on most 107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126, and 201 to 1985 chassis. These are the models WITHOUT an airbag.
Groaning, snaping and jammed door check straps are a common problem on the older models (up through 1995). This is primarily due to age and lack of lubrication. Newer models will soon start having similar problems. Rain water getting inside the doors is the big killer.
Diesel engines make noise. Some ticking and rattling is normal and not something you should be concerned about. Certain loud knocking or rattling noises could be a sign that something bad is happening to the engine, especially if the noise comes on suddenly.
This is part 2 of a 4 part video series Kent has done on repairing the power tilting sunroofs on the W201 W126 and W124 chassis built from 1986 to 1995. Part 1 covers removal and replacement of the sunroof panel and headliner.
If your transmission is shifting too soon it can really rob your car of power and acceleration. If it is shifting too late it can be very loud and annoying and even affect fuel economy.
To many people, automotive electrical systems and testing are a big mystery. It is not as complicated as you might think.
The driver's side W124 under dash panel can be a little tricky to remove due to all the hidden fasteners. Without knowing where these are and how to get to them, removal can be frustrating and it is easy to break the plastic covers.